Monday, 23 June 2008


Sunday I finally managed to go back climbing at the top of Mount Amiata after almost one year. To go there just once a year is a clear sign of my stupidity: the place is absolutely magnificent. First of all you climb at 1500 meters above the sea, and given that today it was 35° it's been a good call. Then, there's an enormous potential: I have seen at least ten new lines to be cleaned just walking around twenty minutes today. Third: there's no third, the two before reasons are enough.
Sadly the wrist is far from healed, and I'm typing with an ice bag on it now.
The rock is very aggressive, and after an afternoon of bouldering my fingers were screaming so much that I couldn't hear my friends yelling where the footholds were.
Anyway I think I climbed well, still very concerned about the wrist, and therefore still not powerfully, but decently. I'm sad I couldn't repeat one problem I did last year, but wrong sequence and paniful skin hindered me: I got the hold on my last try but it was too painful to cling to it.
I found a new project: it's hard. I couldn't do any of the moves. You have a good undercling for right hand, a bad vertical crimp for left hand and very bad feet; dyno out left hand to a small crimp (still bigger then the one in the roof project), then bring right foot very very high and right, squeeze as if it was the last thing you do in your life and go right hand to a bad slopey crimp-pinch-knob. Now bring left foot very very high to your left hand, and go left hand to a diagonal gaston for two fingers, don't let go and go again left hand to the good hold. Top out and scream yourself numb. It's a roof.
I have to train.
So plans are to rest one day and maybe go back on tuesday to clean some boulders and climb more new lines. Then another rest day and some more climbing. Then another rest day and some more climbing.
Could you tell my life has changed lately?

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