Wednesday, 18 April 2012


In the pic, the new game.

As I texted today to my brother Tom, I am beyond climbing.

In the last weeks, following a totally new (for me) idea of less volume in each session, suggested by The Guru himself, I have trained or climbed nearly everyday. Sometimes with double sessions.
I also had my fire baptism with deadlifting. I am loving all the training, and despite the effort, both mental and physical that it requires, I am having a hell of fun.
My lifting session was a bit strange though, because I didn't manage to do what I preached the others beginner lifters should do: play it safe, master the technique first, technique is everything. Naturally, as I stepped in all I could think in my naive little mind was "I want to lift 100 kg". Going through the sets I adjusted my position to a stance more similar to the Romanian lifts, than to the conventional ones. Hips quite high. It felt better and I got to 110 kg first try, but then I felt the sirens chanting "Go for double bodyweight!". That is for me 130 kg, and despite feeling close, I forced myself into resisting, like Ulysses.
The following day my legs were fine, but my lower back was very very stiff.
Then, on another matter (or training tool, if you prefer), I noticed some unexpected improvement on the Beastmaker. I know that the concept of "unexpected improvement" doesn't go along well with the concept of training almost every day to obtain that improvement, but the last gains have been huge, for me.
To cut a long story short, I suddenly found myself able to hang:
- small pockets, back2, with 6 kg on;
- 45° with 6 kg on;
- one pad monos, ring finger, with 6 kg on;
- one arm dead hang (RH) the 35° and the right eye with 6 kg on;
- one arm dead hang (RH) the 45° with a slight nestle.
I think this is all.
I am very pleased about the back2 (a feat that is still unrepeated) and the ring monos (repeated) a notoriously weak link for me. Also, I noticed big gains in my left arm, being able to dead hang the 35°, and the right eye with some ease.
I've had also a couple of good, enjoyable climbing sessions on my new project, that is close to being climbed. Two years ago I could not do any of the crux moves...
Another source of great fun, has been system training.
Finally, I dedicate a lot of energy to the mental aspect of training, both when simply bouldering and system bouldering.
A few system training videos below.

Finally, I would like to really thank the new followers, and again all the madmen that dedicate part of their time to this blog.