Wednesday, 27 February 2008


If that's true, I am something filthy, and definitely poisonous.
I ate something very very nasty, that made me so fucking sick. I was in the gym, and in a matter of minutes, I started feeling very very weak (weaker than usual anyway) and had to stop (after another two campus series). I managed somehow to cycle home with a flat front tire and collapsed. Shortly after I was burning with fever and had nightmares the whole night. Having just watched "Sweeney Todd" in the aftermoon sure didn't help me.
Dammit I'm fine now after an entire day in bed, but am knackered.

Monday, 25 February 2008


It seems this season is already over. It's normal, in these days of high pressure, to have 16 or 17 degrees. Needless to say, not the best climate for winter bouldering. Anyway, having sent two lifetime projects in the very few weekends of good conditions make me very happy.

Yesterday, instead on going to try another project that needs ALOT of friction, with a short text message with route directions, I went to check out a new area close to here. It's been very strange, and very funny. I obviously got lost, missing one crucial turn left, and making a long long drive to get to the point where I should have gotten in five kms...
Anyway I was alone, as usual, and just climbed what I liked. One line in particular got my attention, a deep cave with good holds under the roof, and worse holds as you go up. I really muscled my way up that roof, but the dyno proved itself to be a stop move for me: the right hand undercling was the slickest hold I've ver touched. Something resembling to a plastic layer. Anyway I was feeling a bit disappointed, because I wanted the send, and finally tried another sequence, completely different. It went second go. No need to muscle your way up a problem unless it's the way to do it, ok?

I've done alot of campusing on slopers, and it's fucking funny. Body tension a go go. I'm really feeling good. Let's stay focused and calm.

Monday, 18 February 2008


I have been victim of a fraud, this leading to having to pay an enormous amount of money for my internet connection.
I have sued them, but now I don't have internet.
I have some news, and I'll post soon.


Monday, 11 February 2008


I sent Out of Service. A problem onli climbed once, six years ago by a visiting strongman. A long long affair came to an end.
How did this happen?
How did a successful day dawned?
It dawned at 6 30 am, with me unable to sleep and afraid of missing the alarm. Then when there, I definitely felt something in me that gave me confidence. I felt happiness: happiness for being out with alot of friends in a sunny, cold, windy day. It was so good I didn't care about trying OOS. I could have climbed the whole day without it and it would have been perfect anyway. But I couldn't. I had just one go on "Iceberg", a powerful 7b+, and easily get to the last bit, before losing feet and falling. I didn't try it again, I have already done it, and didn't want to spoil the mighty energy I was feeling inside me. I walked away alone to clean the holds on OOS. They didn't need any cleaning. I was on from the first go, then one girl broke a small flake I was heel hooking on, and so I knew that I had to use the other heel hook. Next go I got the arete and I thought "what now?" because I had never tried the topout. So I just pulled. From the top I could hear everybody cheering me, but realized everything only many many minutes later.
It's gone. It's gone. It's gone. It's gone. It's gone. It's gone.It's gone. It's gone. It's gone.It's gone. It's gone. It's gone.It's gone. It's gone. It's gone.

Sunday, 10 February 2008

Tuesday, 5 February 2008


So, the comp didn't go bad at all. I got into the finals. The formula was the most far away from a bouldering comp, because we had to climb various problems of the qualifiers, on tha same wall, without stepping back on the mat, i.e. downclimbing using whatever holds and rests. I went second, amongst the laughter for my shoes full of holes in the toes, and started confident, I had recovered a bit. I pulled seriously for about... one hold. On the first foot placement, my shoe slipped and I was on the mat. Everybody was laughing, myself included, and after all it was a nice, funny way to end a nice comp.

Three guys did more problems than me, but I was the only one to flash two of the hardest problems: they had one other ascent only, but no flashes. So I'm happy.

The big news. I got a sponsorship.
The guys who opened a new climbing and biking shop here asked me to wear their suff, show the logo, and post pictures and reviews on their website. We still have to talk seriously about that, but she told that I'll have new stuff for every season, summer and winter, and even a budget!!!
I am very shy about this, but they asked me and I can't see no reason to refuse. I think I will ask them not to give alot of stuff and not to invest too much money on me.
Anyway, it was a crazy night...

So, from now, check the links!!!

Monday, 4 February 2008


Here we go, another monday morning. Monday mornings are for sleeping and psyching up for the evening session, the only one without a workday before.
Tonight I will compete again, after swearing I wouldn't. I think this time it could be different (I always think that): it will be less crowded, in another gym, and mainly it's the chance to meet other friends I can never climb with, due to horrendous cycling times to get to the gym, and, moreover, to get back home.
My friend Andrea got his novel published. I am in it, as it starts and finishes with some classic climbing in the Dolomites. This led me to think alot of things that someday I'll write about.
It's still raining. I don't remember such a winter in all my life. Dammit. But I have a plan.