Monday, 25 February 2008


It seems this season is already over. It's normal, in these days of high pressure, to have 16 or 17 degrees. Needless to say, not the best climate for winter bouldering. Anyway, having sent two lifetime projects in the very few weekends of good conditions make me very happy.

Yesterday, instead on going to try another project that needs ALOT of friction, with a short text message with route directions, I went to check out a new area close to here. It's been very strange, and very funny. I obviously got lost, missing one crucial turn left, and making a long long drive to get to the point where I should have gotten in five kms...
Anyway I was alone, as usual, and just climbed what I liked. One line in particular got my attention, a deep cave with good holds under the roof, and worse holds as you go up. I really muscled my way up that roof, but the dyno proved itself to be a stop move for me: the right hand undercling was the slickest hold I've ver touched. Something resembling to a plastic layer. Anyway I was feeling a bit disappointed, because I wanted the send, and finally tried another sequence, completely different. It went second go. No need to muscle your way up a problem unless it's the way to do it, ok?

I've done alot of campusing on slopers, and it's fucking funny. Body tension a go go. I'm really feeling good. Let's stay focused and calm.

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