Friday, 16 May 2008


I strangely strained on finger on my last session: there is this yellow problem that I tried a couple of months ago (they don't set new problems this often...) at the end of one session, falling quite high on my second go, and then never being able to reach my high point again for weeks. It starts in an overhanging dihedral, you get a far away small gaston crimp left hand, you completely lean onto it and match right hand to get an undercling left hand. The match is a very difficult move, because you don't have to get the gaston too good, otherwise there will be no room for right hand, but still you've got to get it properly. Anyway, somewhere during this process I pulled my right index finger quite strongly sideways, towards the pinky finger and it's been hurting for a couple of days also the tendon in the hand, infact I couldn't pinch with my thumb. I lost my opposing thumb and went back to a primate for a few days.
Human again now. Opposing thumb is useful.
Anyway, I wanted to move a bit yesterday and so I opted for some weights. It's been ages since my last time in a weights gym, and it will probably pass a similar amount of time, hopefully, before I do more: it's boring!
I did what I used to do recently, weight wise, 4 sets of 25 reps with light weights. Still boring.
I did shoulders and pecs, then a few tests on the lat machine, one handed. I warmed up by doing sets of 3 one armers with 45 kg, and nearly fainted stright away. Scary. Longer rests were needed. Then I worked my way up the scale, under the stares of many beefcakes and luckily a few puzzled girls. I resolved to have just one pull for each step, and flashed up to 68 kg left hand and 75 kg right hand. Wow, it was stressful and hard. I think harder than normal, free body one armers, because you have to pull sideways, your body can't rotate to mantain the equilibrium under your pulling arm and so it's more strenuous on the shoulders and pecs also. Oh well...
Then biceps and triceps, two sets of front levers (much more staring faces), done.
I got some new holds for the board. Two very bad slopers, two slopey crimps, six good slopey edges. I will get a jug to train negatives, then it will be complete. Bring on the Dark Days.


pascal said...

I don't understand exactly what you mean with the one arm pulls in the gym (because I've never been in a gym) but it sounds hard and impressive! I just put weight in a rucksack and do one armers. Does that count?

lore said...

yes, it counts.
i mean you use the lat machine not with the bar but with a handle.