Saturday, 17 May 2008


Here I am, at our house at the sea, the van empty now, my back hurting. It's been a rollercoaster from early this morning, with also a long drive packed into. Anyway, as soon as we got to the sea we bought some fish and wine for dinner and then I went straight into the water to baptise my first day here with a nice session on 3 feet clean waves, with a nice breeze offshore. I am very happy about my surfing, I was in full trim, really, and my board is just magic.

So, it's been the beginning I was hoping for, I hope it goes on even better.

Yes, yes, fucking yes, my friends.
The day I met the magic carpet.

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