Saturday, 3 May 2008


Yesterday I almost sent the sit start to Out of Service. I wasn't sure to get involved in this, mainly because it seemed pointless, but yesterday I finally resolved to go there and brush the holds. After the first couple of tried I got quite excited, because the added moves are quite brillian: you pull from a very good hold that obviously faces the wrong direction, you go to a very thin seam, then to the good holds. At that point you have to get the starting holds of OOS in the right position, and to do that there's a strong heel hook and another nice move when you lean onto the left arm, completely out of balance, to get your right hand down to the good hold. Then you do OOS...
I got two times to the last bits, but at that point getting the high spot for the final heel hook is quite strenuous, especially because you have added a few moves on the left shoulder, that at the moment was starting to ache. Anyway it will go and it will go soon, I hope.
Before that I managed to tick The Red Fox, courtesy of Keith's visit last june. I did it with a slight jump start, so not the purest of styles, but I was afraid of slipping from the first move into the rocky hole, and the small jump made me more confident. It's a very nice problem.
Last, I finally found out that I have broken my external ligament in my left ankle. I don't know if I did it on my last day in Font, but it's broken now, and I have to be very very careful, because even the slightest torque makes me scream.


Ghostface said...

OOS looks so good. Pretty sure I remember seeing a photo of the Red Fox which also looked immense.

lore said...

you'll soon fondle the holds of both!!!
i'm sure OOS suits you!!!