Thursday, 8 May 2008


I have recently read an interesting interview to young moster puller Adam Ondra. Talking about his preferences he said that he really likes to climb onsight, and that when he falls (oh! does he sometimes?) on an onsight, he doesn't try the route again unless it's 8c or above...
Moreover, on a recent trip in Ticino, he dispatched "Dreamtime" Fb 8b+ in four hours, flashing many problems up to Fb 8a+. His five goes to send "La rambla original" 9a+ are clearly something that should make us reflect over his concept of redpoint, not to talk about "Silbergeier" 8b+ in eight hours.
This boy (because at 15 he is a boy, dammit) clearly was born to climb and to blow every known limit. Just to give a few numbers he has logged on his profile something like 426 routes of 8a or above.
So the question is: what could he do, should he embark, say, in a year long project, with specific training and everything? Of course there still is no route in the world to challenge him in such way, so who will have the vision of bolting something so outragely futuristic, so visionary as the mid seventies look of an alucinated John Yablonsky on acid about "Midnight Lightning"?
And, will he realize how this discipline is changing under his young hands? Will he realize that he is climbing out of every guess?

1 comment:

9b said...

Good questions !
Ask him here: