I started late, around 8 30 pm, just the time to be washed by rain on the way to the car, to drive as if I was drinving a submarine, and to get dry at home.
I was excited and at the same time worried because with the new board I lost every usual parameter but in the end I think that's very good, even though it took me a bit to get used to the new feel of the holds, to chalk the slopers and to file the edges of the rungs a bit more.
Anyway, I found out that the small crimps are really small, and the others aren't that good either. Good, good.
I tried a few dynoes, from rung to rung (long but easy), from rung to slopers (uhhh tasty), from crimps to slopers (committing! you don't want to rip from the crimp mid air!!!), from rung to rung one handed, with other hand on something small. Still have to go for the longest distance. The possibilities are endless.
Then I did a few tests. One arm deadhangs: 1,5 cm edge, 6" right hand, 2" left hand (must improve). Then one armers on 1,5 cm edge : 1++++ right arm, ----1 left (must improve). Then the crimps: 3" as my best effort two handed, they are two nasty bastards and I really needed to cool down my fingers with a fan to be able to hang them, as they are quite slopey and allow three fingers only. The fact that they are footholds must mean something. This small test really made me happy because during the warm up I was very dubious about even being able to place my fingers correctly on them, so getting 3" was a big issue!!!
Then the real session started, even if I was already a bit worked: these tests are hard because you are always over your limits.
Anyway, I went for some ATP routines, 20" deadhang, 20" rest x 10 times. One set on crimps, one set on big slopers. This second set was really cool to do and did good for my forearms, it was a bit like dangling from "La Balance" slopers, with the only difference that I wasn't in Bleau, I was alone at home in a deserted summer residence village, with a Hendrix cd blasting at full volume.
A subtle difference maybe, because I pulled the slopers down as if it was the last thing to do on earth dammit.
P.s. I live here: