Thursday, 22 May 2008


While driving home yesterday evening there were grey, thick clouds covering the top of the hills towards the sea. They projected a dark shadow on the ground and made the air cool. Then I drove out of the shadow, and the sky was bright, lit up, and sunny. I drove up the hill and could see the glittering on the sea surface, moved by a breeze from NW. I thought life isn't that bad after all, and fueled by a cream pastry and a can of Coke I speeded towards the fingerboard.
The usual warm up routine followed: wrist curls, shoulders, biceps, triceps. Then a few assisted pull ups on the bigger holds: this is a bit of an issue now, since I don't have any really good hold for warming up on. The biggest one is 1,5 cm and the slopers are good but a bit strenuous on the wrists.
Anyway I did:
- assisted one armers on 1,5 cm edge: 4 x 4 sets x each arm, 4' rests;
- max full lock offs matched on sloper, x 10, 1' rests;
- dynoes: one hand on 1,5 cm edge, the other one lower on 1 cm edge, then on the 3 slopey holds one on top the other, then down to 1 cm edge: x 4 sets x each arm, 2' rests.
I really have to say I felt good.
The first one armer of the sets was always really really powerful (at leas as powerful as mine can be), and the fan is great for drying the skin and making everything more satisfying; 4 one armers are alot though, and I dropped down but that's what you train for. I also thought about what Keith told me while in Font, about a conversation he had with power monster, training fanatic Rich Simpson on campusing. It was about campusing actually without twisting your body, just pulling down on one side, to make it harder and to work the shoulders as well. I think this is damn right, because training is made to make you feel weak, to make you fail, and it applies to every kind of excercise: for this reason I chose to do my one armers with my body just in front of the board, not sideways. I hope when trying the same excercise with some twisting it will feel alot easier. It worked in other occasions, and I'm sure it will work even more on rock.
Then the slopers: ahh so funny to do!!! No way to have success without the fan.
Dynoes: the board still moevs a bit, until I put some heavy weights on the legs (remember, it's free standing) I can't really go 100% but this excercise was committing and hard because the holds are good but a bit slopey, and they're 25 cm apart so it's a bit of a long way up, and moreover down!!!
It's been a very nice session, with a good volume, but since today I rest I thought it was fine to push a little bit further also on the volume side.
Tunes: still Hendrix.
Two glasses of wine, dinner, bed.

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