Wednesday, 14 May 2008


I'm planning my move to the sea, and it's boring and unnerving. I like to plan things, because it's a good way to have them done properly, but not all plannings are the same: I have to think when and how to pack the car, what to take at first, when to come back and take the van with all the remaining stuff and so on. It's abviously made difficult by the fact that I also have to do other things and can't dedicate myself to just this.
Anyway, yesterday I had a good session at the gym, despite feeling tired from monday's fingerboard tests and session on my old board at home. Doing good there is always psyching, but also it's satisfying to train on it because the holds are grippy, clean and not painted with water based paint. Moreover, I started to train with a fan there, to cool my fingers, just as Malc does in "Splinter" and that works alot. This is what we have to thank all the Big Guns for: setting an example we are psyched to follow, having simple ideas that we are happy to share, and generally show us that "It can be done".
I was reading some other blog, and I thought that it's very hard to put hard training and climbing into a normal life made of work and a relationship. This post's title is "Planning", the last one's title was "Time", and clearly the way to solve the above problem is planning your time. During the past winter, I had to plan every session, every rest day, every day out, everything, and this took alot out from the pleasure I get from climbing: the spontaneity, the improvisation, the surprise. Having to plan is good and bad at the same time: if it's a way of sorting your things out better, it's nice, while when it becomes a way to try and steal little bits of time from other stuff to put some climbing in, it's difficult, it's boring and it's not enjoyable as it should be, because it becomes another sort of work.
The joy of skipping a fingerboard session to jump on the car and to the boulders, or the joy of getting to the gym a bit drunk after an aperitivo with one friend, and just sit there chatting and watching the others climb, is something that we sometimes need. If we don't have the chance to do it sometimes, because we HAVE to do that fingerboard session on that day, because we HAVE to climb at the gym, because otherwise we won't have time, our pursuit to go up through the Font scale becomes like the pursuit to go up through the office hierarchy.


Palla Alta said...

Ok fucker, go touch some real rock and forget about all the shit that is clouding your brain. Here it is: as you pull into Roccastrada stop! go to the pastry shop and get something delicious, a few doors up the street is calling you in for a cafe. ok now go past where the road washed away (because I know they still haven't fixed it) and and just before you arrive at the parking stop at the spring for some water. Now you can warmup and then fail on my test pieces but don't feel bad just be happy that made progress. Ok so seriously have you even tried Nipples lately? If not go do it and tell me how easy it felt. And even more seriously I wish I could go do that with you tomorrow. until I see you again...

P.S. tell Luca he is the gayest man I know

I miss you, you fucking strong, crazy, motherfucking Italian

P.P.S. hope this made a little bit of sense the bottle of wine is going fast

lore said...

it's all in the details. seems like you've been there a few times uh?