Saturday, 20 June 2009


"Forgive me father, for I have sinned."
"How many times son?"
"Twice recently."
"Did you enjoy it?"
"Yes, father."
Thursday I did that thing with the rope again. With the top rope, in my case. I went with excellent friends Cristiano and Niccolò to a close crag, a slightly overhanging wall with sharp hol
ds. I have to say that Niccolò turned into a monster: he was literally waltzing up a 30 meter long 8a where I was struggling on every move. I managed to flash a 30... moves 7b, and that made me happy. After an initial section of 6c, you get to a decent rest on a flat edge, then you cruise up the final 4 meters wall on drilled pockets via long locks. It felt absolutely piss, on every pocket I could feel my power getting back. Later I checked a shorter, more powerful 7c+ (hard for me), getting all the moves done, and tried an absolutely hopeless second go redpoint attempt with nothing left in my fingertips.
I have understood some things: I can do averagely well on a top rope, also on routes that are not my style. I have big weaknesses on monos (too many injuries in the past make it impossible for me to train monos, unless I manage to get myself a Beastmaker, one thing that I really want to do soon even if I don't know where to put it), and on sharp crimps (why did I go to a crag that only features monos and sharp crimps is a mistery to many), while I am ok on technique and other stu
I have absolutely no idea of leading a route.
Well, finally temps hit the mighty 40° mark the other day. It's generally 30° in the gym, and today I will have to face another system boarding session on pinches. I wonder how will a dry, fresh, granite pinch feel under my fingertips after these sessions. Quite good I bet...
This next week I will train again, then I'll have one week off, then I'll start the weights program.

On the summer agenda: Dolomites, to do that fucking "Redline" and hopefully "Dolomitenmann" along with some multipitch routes; one weekend in Innsbruck. Not much I know for an entire summer of blood, toil and tears in the gym, but that's what you get when you find a job that you like.
On the matter, tonight I have a dinner w
ith my conversation students, a couple from Slovackia, a Colombian girl, a Turkish girl and two Japanese girls that make for a bunch that's fun as fuck. They are a blessing.
On another matter, the totty is absolutely out in full fucking force. I am glad I don't have to teach anymore to that German girl because sometimes it was just too... haem...hard.
Sharp crimps and monos tomorrow again, forgive me father.

1 comment:

Ghostface said...


Hey and save me some of these girls can you!?