Sunday, 7 June 2009


Since my comeback from Elba, I've been feeling, climbing wise, like a bag of shit. Two weeks at the sea and my skin turned so soft that I can barely touch a hold just after one hour. Then, my left ring finger started hurting alot, I was very confident while in Elba but just after a couple of soft sessions here it started all over again, and this really pissed me off. Then, I have gained two kilos, somewhere in the last two or three months (I don't check my weight so often, but the mirror never lies), and despite being sure that it's not all fat, I'm sure it's mostly fat.
So it's been a bit hard lately, due to all these factors.
Then, yesterday I went bouldering. Surprise, I can still climb something. All alone in my small crag at Amiata, I did my usual circuit, then wanted to try a traverse that I had freed last year, that has now lost a hold (Filo, you damn fatso). Well it's bloody hard, and I'm happy I've done it after sussing out the new feet sequence (grab the crimps and pull harder, that is). Filo reckons 7c, I don't know but it would be good if it were.
Finally, the greatest surprise of the day, and a great great gift from my friends that were sport climbing there: at the end of the day I they were trying a route I freed in 2003, that now is done with a different sequence from mine, a beautiful sequence nonetheless. One guy had already stopped climbing, and the other one was unable to get the 'draws because the route overhangs and it's hard at french 8a. I offered to tie in and get the 'draws, and while I was preparing I started doubting my choice. I have sport climbed once in the last six years, february 2008 with The Guru and I got home shocked and scared. But the place was friendly to me, my friends were nice and smiling, so I set off with joy and confidence. Despite the unbearable pain in my fingertips, I climbed well and nearly retro-flashed the route, doing it with just one rest on the rope. Dammit it would have been incredible to do it clean, but the joy that this little bet gave to me has been so much that I don't care. I'm very happy also because this broadens my boundaries, and I am ready to join my friends for more (top) rope action.
Relax and go with the flow.

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