Sunday, 20 January 2008


Midway through my "weekend", I have mixed feelings: I am very disappointed because the boulders were soaked, literally drowning. I am pleased because I manage to crank with a happy bunch of people, finally. Spirits were high, there were the usual good vibes, probably because the horrible conditions didn't let anyone take himself too seriously.

I went to try Out of Service anyway, but I couldn't even start, and my idea of putting a rag on the starting holds was not very good for the following heel hook move on said holds. In one word: disaster.

But friends are made to change your mood from bad to good, and as I walking down thinking about going home, I met the others down at the Spigolo Calibani. It was quite dry, apart from the topout, and we all were keen to have a few goes. I needed two. It was a very long time since when I did it, and in all these years I could never repeat it. The best thing, ok the other best thing apart from doing it again, is that my fingers weren't hurting from the bad left hand pinch. Result.

My friend Tommy did it first go like if it was 6a. I am still in shock.

Then we hiked our fat asses up the hill, and cranked until dark. I nearly repeated one other 7c that I did a few years ago. Wonderful problem: Eric, do you remember that freezing day in june, when I did it? We hadn't climbed together many times, had we?, and still I can't remember how we managed to fix and go climbing, but... who cares now? I can still feel the rush of adrenalin as I latched the top. Ahh, that's life. And now where the fuck are you bastard? I'm tired about waiting for you to come here in order to start sending as I deserve.

So, I think I have to be happy. Also because on friday night I went to the gym and wiped a few problems that I couldn't even come close to start the night before.

Tomorrow. Tomorrow there's the roof. I need not to think about it, I want to sleep tonight. In my foolish mind I think I'm closer to it than to OOS, but who knows, I'll be the closest when I do it.

Do it. Do it. Luca is talking me into tieing again into a rope for some bolt clippin' down south. He says that now that I have some power I could score some hard routes on short, steep ground. Four clips, basically long boulder problems, and he wants me to try "Do it", a famous 8a+ not too far from here.

I am tempted...

1 comment:

Ghostface said...

Tomorrow the roof and next session, Out of Service. Deal.