Monday, 29 October 2007


As previously posted, I have been for a while without my powerful 5.10 Dragons, sent to the clinic for a resole.

They came back transformed, from a downturned, aggressive shoe, to a flat, traditional slab shoe. I'm not happy, and wrote to the resolers: they offered to get me a new pair. Happy ending? When they'll be in my house yes, until then...

Anyway, today's bouldering was very good. It was a bit humid and warm, but good, especially for the company, the chat, and, yes, for the power. We met a good friend.

I'm very close to getting "Out of service", and I'm very happy. Today I finally got the last two moves, the hard hard hard move to the non-existant hold, and the dyno to the lip. Another hard move from there, and it's done. Closer, closer every time.
I usually don't complain about conditions, but today I really was feeling strong, but spent a couple of good tries slipping from the good holds while making room with my body for the heel hook.
At the beginning I wasn't feeling good, so I thought "what would Jerry do?" then proceeded to climb thinking about driving a sport car at full speed in traffic, but didn't work. So again I asked myself "what would Jerry do?" and then dead hung all the holds of the crux.
The following goes were very very good. I know I can do it now.


pascal said...

you can do out of service! Jerry would have campussed it... maybe like all english climbers ;)

Have you repeated the red fox or is it too eliminate/dirty/crappy? The moves are good!

lore said...

just yesterday i was watching the videoclips from when you were here, and i have the red fox on video!!!

i still haven't tried it, for many reasons: i've been to sasso very very seldom, i need a good spotter, i'm sure it's bloody hard and it will kick my ass.
it's really a nice problem, i'm not even sure it's an eliminate.