Sunday, 14 October 2007


Finally, some very very good conditions for pulling. Today was perfect, and in general the weekend was soooooo good!!!
Managed to have some really good tries on a long standing personal project, but the final move still resisted my assaults. I got home with mixed feelings: the climbing made me happy, but an afternoon argument with the girlfriend and a very very sore right wrist are making me sad. I've already put ice on the wrist, and will go to bed with antiinflammatories for the whole night.
If only I could do the same with her.
Moreover: today something spoilt my climbing, and it wasn't the argument with my girlfriend. I went bouldering with a friend, who doesn't want to buy a crashpad. I clearly told him what I was going to try, and he wanted to try something else; I said it was fine for me, but he got to be quick. He wasn't, and when I was already waiting for him at my problem, he stopped along the path to gather chestnuts and talk with people. I waited there for more than 20 minutes, after watching him try his problem for almost one hour. I froze while cleaning the holds, unable to try without a decent spot. Although later the vibes were good, something deep was wrong. He is a very good guy, but he's hard to get along with, especially when he keeps laughing and talking while you're in the middle of the crux. I think he finds hard to understand that some of us may consider climbing a serious thing. He's very talented, and doesn't need to train hard to send hard; he prefers to go snowboarding instead of climbing in the winter, and in general his approach is very casual: he doesn't care if he falls, and he doesn't care that much either if he sends.
So, he can really piss me off, and often does. Like today, and like one month ago, the last time we climbed together. Today I was thinking about not climbing with him again, unless in a bigger group.

Plan for the week:

  • Tomorrow, finding a job.
  • Wednesday, going back to sasso, sending "Out of service" third try.
  • Saturday, winning the Regionals, getting a sponsorship, resigning from work.

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