Thursday, 10 April 2008


I feel a bit depressed lately by my climbing. Mainly because I can't climb outside that much (c'mon, once a week isn't really climbing), and this leads to a lack of motivation for training, and then because I tend to think that for me training is a straight line going upwards endlessly. It obviusly isn't neither for me nor for anyone in the world, it goes up and down, where each down is a bit higher than previous one. But you know this. So now, that I can't pull as hard on the figerboard as one month ago, I always remind me the words of the late Gullich hero "only mediocre atheletes are always at top form", and try not to panic and go back to power training.
I am obsessed by power.
Anyway I'm keeping the faith in The Guru's mighty knowledge and therefore sticking to the program.
In these days I surprised myself by onsighting (really it should be "flashing" since the holds are marked but who cares) a few intense circuits in the gym, 25+ moves on different angles, and also on vertical ground. Could it be that things are coming together?
This post has poorly reflected the title until now. Why joy?
Because sometimes I think that I'm losing joy in what I'm doing for my climbing. When I did my projects I was full of joy, but now? How can I go on? Could always thinking about doing 8a's bring me joy, or just despair? I tend to think it's just the lack of time on the rock, but I think this may turn into an issue, especially if I go on receiving phone calls fixing job interviews.
A few months ago I read this interview that taught me alot about motivation and joy:
Then again, I worked like a madman this winter and ticked two of the hardes lines around, so maybe we just have to keep our faith and go on, like dogs released from the chain.
One last note: while doing tests on the fingerboard tuesday night, I fondled a new slopey edge and tried to one arm on to it. I didn't really one armed it, I pulled it down so hard it disappeared under the gym's floor. Yesterday they were still trying to dig it out.

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