Monday, 10 March 2008


I think I have to talk about the climbing, enough with good feelings and friends, let's talk about grades.
I went for the first time to Parisella's Cave and I liked. The climbing is very very physical, to say the least, and I had a grat time trying to pull long distances between bad holds. I wanted to do Rockatrocity, and after warming up I left the ground for a flash attempt. I know it would have been newsworthy, but I tried nonetheless, and surprised myself as I was going through moves. The crux for me was the long reach to the sloper, and I fell there many times. Then I got nervous because I started feeling more and more tired by the minute, and previous night's three hours of sleep didn't help. I had a few good goes, did it in two halves but couldn't complete it. Sad, I was eager for this historical Moffatt tick. We had more climbing on Texas Karaoke Massacre, and after another two more tries on RA at dusk, we went to the pub.
Good, good day.
Caley was brilliant the following day. It was fucking hard to get used to the grit after an entire winter with very very few climbing outdoor. Anyway I did a few cool cool propblems and then tried Blockbuster. It is quite intimidating standing there and seeing the holds up there, but it's been great to work myself into the problem better and better with each go, and I seriously know I could have done it in the session, would I haven't ripped one finger from the sharp crimp. I started bleeding all over the place, on my and Jim's crashpad, on the rag, that now resembles to a butcher's towel, on my pants. I taped and had a few goes on Ju Ju Club. It felt good, I thought I couldn't do the first long reaches, but could, and I got psyched, but darkness came and we had to call it a day.
Climbers' night in Sheffield.
Font now.
Yesterday we managed to have two sessions with a rainy lunch break. I tried Pince Moi with stupid beta, and Biceps Mou, that Keith almost flashed and promptly sent. Strong strong Keith. After lunch he took me to a nice 8a roof, that we really crushed: BRUSHING one hold I realized it was flexing. Trying the moves we realized every single hold was flexing, big chunks of rock could have fallen on the climber's chest and face, in a powerful attempt. We did a 7a problem trying not to rip the holds as well, and went away.
Buthiers was dry, and while driving there I remembered why it was on my mind, because I wanted to try Magic Bus when I was here in may last year. So I got into it, and with Keith's help for beta, and pressure ("you better do it quickly, it's already dark"), in twenty minutes it was mine.
So, success. Success.
Now I go have lunch, because the rain stopped, the sun came out, the wind is blowing and we want to climb.

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