Saturday I wrote down my winter ticklist, or, as I should say, my life's ticklist. In reading it, I got shocked by my desire: just from the tips of my hands I wrote more than 40 problems, from Sassofortino to Swizzy to Font, up to 8a+.
To get just one quarter of them would be a great success. But I want to think about devouring them all.
The other day I was thinking about what I've done lately, in terms of training: weights and fingerboard, weights and bouldering wall. I recently read an entry from Big Malc's blog on the Scarpa website, and at the end it read, more or less, "after all weights and fingerboard could be the best training". So I'm very very curious to test myself on some rock in good weather conditions, to then set the fil rouge of this winter's training. Oh well, I already have the fil rouge for this winter's training, and it's "BECOMING A BEAST".
Anyway, I think that, after all, to spend the hot summer months training, instead of chasing fresh air and stickiness, and to be ready and powered up for the early autumn weeks could pay out. It could be nice to be already at a semi-peak just at the beginning of the season, when the first cool temps burst the psyche.
I also found out some more info (thanks to weights living encyclopedia Paul B) about the paused routines. It came out that in doing a pause at the end of the negative phase of the movement, the muscle dissipates its elastic energy, that is accumulated during the excentric phase. By losing this elastic energy the effort of the positive phase of the movement (the lift, or push) becomes entirely dependant on muscular (not elastic) effort, i.e. it's performed by the muscle without any aid from the elastic energy. That's why it's so strenuous. More to come.