Monday, 1 September 2008


Despite the calendar shifted into september, it's still very very hot here. I had planned a quick trip to dispatch OOS sit start, but had to think better with a 32° temperature. I spent half an hour cleaning the boulder from recent moss, and it felt gruesome. Then I set the camera and sat on the mat, chalked my hands and proceeded to give the sitter a go, while waiting for my spotters to join me.
Ah, ah! If I ever link the video here, you will se how puzzled I am, trying to figure out how I could have left the ground when I first tried it in early may. You will see me changing handholds, then footholds, then choosing a heelhook, then ridiculously slap to nothing, then fall heavily.
Surprise!!! A big chunk of rock separated itself from the boulder, and where there was a deep foothold now there's nothing.
After a few tries, I realized again that it's more position dependant than really pulling dependant. Curiously, the more you lock off, the more you crunch yourself under the boulder, the further you are from the hold. You have to keep your right arm straight and to push you off the rock to be able to twist your shoulders and get the hold. Sadly, or luckily, this move is that little bit harder than before, just to make it very difficult to get the right hold. The result is two more moves to switch hands, or a very very precarious slap to avoid that. Anyway, I had a few goes and apart from the blinding pain in my fingers (Keith, I know what you're talking about) it wasn't too bad, also given the heat. It's definitely on, but with this added difficulty I feel it a bit harder than I did in may.
Note to self: six training days in a week is prolly too much.
Today I drove alot, to go south to close the business with the firm, gather all the stuff I had left there, say hello and go away. Everyone found me in very good shape: the woman that used to give me a hard time when I was there told me "I had never seen you with that face". Guess why.
So I came out with a pleasant feeling, all my things and a last final check of 1.400 Euros. Result.
So, here you go the non quality vids.
What's missing: the starting foothold.

What's still there: the crux hold.

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