Friday, 3 October 2008


Yesterday I got to the gym a bit unsure about what I should do. The schedule was for fingerboarding, but the temp a bit warm, one finger not feeling good and some fatigue from tuesday made me think more: I thought "I'm not syked!!! Dammit bro, this ain't gonna be rad!!!" Luckily one of my homies, Luca, got in. "Yo bring your fat ass under the 60°, Keyser Soze" he told me; I said "Yo weren't you goin' to get some ink?" "Tomorrow, tomorrow: I'm gettin' a long sleeve man, a Chinese landscape from me shoulder to me wrist!!!" " Fuckin hell man, you're gonna look awesome!!! You'd better look awesome tomorrow, because right now I'm gonna kick your ass with just one shoe on!!!"
Then we proceeded to bust big moves between small, slopey holds, body tension baby, full power baby, full steam baby, screaming and yelling our way up the hardest problems the gym had to offer, that lasted so short under our pressure, that we were settin' new rad stuff in five seconds baby.
"Yo mutants, stop pullin' my holds out of the walls!!!" screamed Cristiano, the gym owner, "Hey stop bitchin' like yo' mama and come pullin baby" we replied. Ahh what a session!!! I feel knackered, worked, beasted, beaten.
Well, it could have gone like this, but it didn't. I taped my ankle like hell and did a couple of long circuits with only my left shoe on, one at 7b, and one at 7c+ (in two parts!!!) and then I finally put a big right shoe on: the other night I had spent the session deadhanging, watching my friends bouldering; I was thinking that the problems they were working were very hard, only one of them did them after many tries, and I was more or less happy of not being able to join them because of my ankle, because I was afraid of not being up to them. Yesterday night I flashed the first and did the second in 15 minutes.
Lightweight baby.


Mikael said...

Your mail that u gave lat ime did not here is a small letter...What is your mail???

Mikael, sweden

Hi Lore, greetings from sweden...

We are leaving on wednesday the 8th of week u know..arrive late, and will be sleeping at al censo like last time...Will probably climb the first day in cresc. Then we go further to chironico and climb mostly there...Probably fin a camping close to the area i hope...since we have a tent...

Are u joining us...have been training properly for a while and is hoping to do some nice some beta on my Ipod on several vitruvian man, la soucope, serre moi fort, miss schweiz, dr med dent, dr crimp, autopilot....and many more...

I really hope that u have the possibillity to would be nice to climb with u!!!

we leave on the 17th...

greetings mikael, östersund, sweden..

lore said...

hey mikael!!!
as you may have read here i'm nursing a very bad ankle sprain. it's getting better, so i hope i can join you up north!!!
the camping just under chironico (gottardo camping) is very nice and have its own bakery!!!