Tuesday, 11 December 2007


I just turned from the God of Technology that I was yesterday, to the God of Power that I was tonight at the gym.
I did nothing special, I mean, not in general terms, I just quickly did a yellow problem that many other regulars have done, but during the warm-up I tried a couple of tests, and I easily did two one armers, right hand, on the 2 cm edge. One on left hand.
Then I tried some dead hanging, talked into it by a friend, stop watch in hand. After a few tests one girl (!!!!!) called me from behind and said "do you want a cappuccino while on that edge?". That made me happy, and I could have easily gone home after just twenty minutes in the gym.
As prediceted, killer weather now.
I was very rude to a friend, while warming up. I was thinking loud, basically, trying to decide what problem I should try. My friend, who recently dropped bouldering for sport climbing, doing his first 8a just this past saturday, heard me talking about trying a hard blue problem on the 60° board, and he told me "what the hell, you still have to do the blues?" to which I coldly answered "yes, but I climbed my first 8a five years ago".
I feel sorry about that, but I think he deserved it.
It's not my fault if he turned to sport climbing because his girlfriend likes it more than bouldering. The other night he told me "as soon as I sport climb 8a I get back to bouldering, and I will send Out of Service before you".
Then again he said "I won't be satisfied until you top out, 'cos you can fall also after getting the lip" and stuff like that.
So tonight I said what I said.
I don't fucking care about the fucking blues or yellows in the gym. I want to do one armers on edges and not being able to remember if they were five or six. I want to measure my dead hangs just using the minutes. I want to do Out of Service during a morning break from work. I want to do "Il Signore degli Anelli", "Frank's wild years", "La pelle" and then something hard.


Ghostface said...

Jesus man good work on the one arming! That guy sounds a bit of a tool, he can't be good to climb with surely?? You want your friends willing you to the top, not wanting you to fall off.

Sounds like you have your priorities right Lore. Fuck him and fuck his stupid ego.

Your climbing sounds like it's going great. I want to tap into the guru!

Roberto Bagnoli said...

.."maiala, deh!"

lore said...

really, my friend is a very good guy, and i've had memorable climbing days with him!!!
the only thing is that he's always up for some challenge of sort, and maybe, now, a little shocked because i'm putting everything into bouldering, just like he was doing a couple of years ago.

this morning he came at the shop, and nothing from the past days was in the air, and i know that we could leave right now for a bouldering trip and have a great time.

it's good to realize that some kind of friendships are really forever.

but...beware! the third pullup is just behind the door.