Thursday, 27 December 2007


Finally, I managed to touch some rock. Obviously, I had to earn it, due to very very humid weather, that forced me to shift from Sasso and Out of Service and drive further to Amiata and The Roof.
I was feeling strong, and last session tests made me confident, but the project is very hard. I nearly sent. I didn't, but was close, and most of all I understood how to do the first move. It was an impossible move, and became a very low percentage move (I did it twice in the whole day), so I think it could really go.
Obviously, I'm talking about the easy, contrieved, eliminate version of the roof. I posted something about that a while ago, and friends wisely suggested to send the easy line (8a?) first, then work the real line, then (I add) call Ty Landman to send it.
During the session I was alone, and I was soaking every ray of sunlight, every breeze, and I was happy. Eric and Keith know how peaceful that place can be.
At one moment, I felt my index and middle finger gently catching the hold, sticking it, and my body staying put, with my brand new Solution jammed under the roof to avoid cutting lose. This was shocking, and I had to force myself to go on, instead of dropping it in disbelief. And on I went, but I lost my left foot for a few seconds, and that made me squeeze a bit more on the crimp, so when I dynoed for the last hold of the crux, I got it, and got it right, but my left hand slipped, and caught me without body tension, flying rightwards and out from the roof to the ground.
My legs started trembling, and from that moment all I could think about was doing that move again. I did it, but fell again with too much momentum.
So, it was a small step for human kind, but a giant step for me.
I could have sent.
I could have sent the roof.
It's something to think about, to understand, and to be happy.


Palla Alta said...

I wanted to ask about this project before, but I didn't want to distract you from OOS. I know that you can do this one just block out the pain and it's yours. buon natale...

p.s. why did you post pictures of Vale's arms on your blog?

lore said...

i was so close my friend...
you would have been proud of me.