Saturday, 23 April 2011


In the pics, the devastation I left behind.

Where once the chilren's laughter used to resonate, and Mother Nature shone in all its beauty and grace for the climbers to rejoyce and appreciate, now there is only a desolated wasteland, after my passage.
What a day.
And I didn't even climb my project. I didn't really have to, I almost don't need to, I know it's just a matter of time, but on days like today everything goes into perspective. I was strong. I have been for a little while now, and it feels so good. In the last sessions I have never fallen from the usual roof direct and I have never missed the first dyno. I am almost doing it every time from the extension start, and soon will come the day that "almost" disappears.
Cold fingers are still an issue, but again I feel confident. A slight adjustement in the heel hooks sequence proved to be crucial, despite the fact that I had already tried it but to no avail. Something has changed. Many things have.
Today, while doing another lap on the direct, I got the pinch and I knew I wasn't coming off. Every time I do it, I do it more slowly and in a more controlled way. Today even the last crimp felt good, it almost made me drop from the surprise. I love climbing because climbing always shocks me with new things, and because despite the fact that I am just a punter close to his fourties, climbing still makes me happy, happier than I had ever thought on that mid-March day of 1993, when I first put on an oversized pair of climbing boots, touched the rock, and broke forever that invisible veil that separeted me from a better reality. I will never thank myself enough for that choice. It was in me, and this all is like me.
A few of the things that are starting to make a huge difference:
doing short, intense sessions instead of long tiring days;
buying new shoes with fresh rubber, especially on the heels;
buying Antihydral, getting to the problem with hard skin for the nasty holds;
being confident and taking a few more rest days;
and most of all, never, never ever losing the fucking faith.


martin said...

nice to hear you make such good progression, but what (exactly) happend to that wood?!

GCW said...

Some things are meant to be. I don't really believe in predestination, but paths often lead to one conclusion. Coincidence? I doubt it.

lore said...

thanks guys!!!
Martin, that's a normal way of keeping the wood here, with small controlled fires!