Saturday, 30 April 2011


In the video stills, two important moments: sticking the move to the "rest", and sticking the precarious dyno to the only good hold of the hard section. I am analyzing the video frame by frame, to try and unlock even the slightest detail that could help.
Today, for example, I went back to using my old Jet7 for my left foot, because the new Team, with their padded toe box, create too much friction when I drag my foot on the underside of the lower part of the roof while I dyno. I need to shave every gram.
I am happy. As I have said many times, minimal changes have a butterfly effect and nothing is what it may appear at first glance: how missing a hold can be better than sticking it? It's simple: because last week I was hitting the hold properly but my heel was peeling off; today I was hitting the hold in the wrong bit but my heel always stayed put. On the dyno, it's not hard to cover the distance to the hold, you can jump to that hold, but you won't hold the swing. It's hard to cover the distance without cutting loose. That's why sometimes missing a hold can be better than sticking it.
On a side note, in my last post I clearly showed my wrong mindset when I wrote I badly timed session could spoil the project. That's not what I want to think.
All I have to do is get back on training, doing good and well timed session. There are many ways to do things wrong, but often only one to do them right, and I only want to think about that single right one.

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