Monday, 18 January 2010


As previously announced, I spent the weekend with super wad, super kind man Tadej Slabe. He is still a beast! I watched him climb, and I got immediately psyched, so, being a naturally shy guy and having sport climbed two times in the last ten years or so, I tied into the rope and set off on "Sanjski Par" 8c.
Yes my friends, I went there and gave it a go. I didn't do it, just in case you were so foolish to think I had more than 0,01 of climbing it in the session.
The route is super short, powerful and really fun to climb: I was so at ease in the place, on the route and with Tadej that I actually led it. Being two meters from the ground, I think, helped. I also had a look at the nearby "Za Staro Kolo" 8c+ and noticed that all the holds in the first wall face the wrong directions, down, diagonal, not one hold is usable straightforward. I was blown away.
Now I want to go there and climb "Sanjski Par". Excellent. I have two pages worth of bouldering projects and now I also want to climb an 8c in Slovenia.
Oh well, that's fun.
While I was trying the first part of the route, his wife exclaimed "Lorenzo you're strong, you have iron in your arms!"
I immediately found new power for another go, without thinking that iron gets rusty!!!
Then after two or three goes to understant the first part of the route, we went away and I had another moment of glory, just thanks to him. We had gotten very early at the crag, on a cold and damp day, so when all the other climbers arrived we were already there, in the cave, pulling. When all the others were just warming up, we packed and left. As we were walking down, I felt so good: I was with a super strong climber, I had been seen putting together some moves on a 8c and I was a complete stranger. The misterious stranger.
Dwarf on the shoulder of a giant, I shone in the way down, cheering everyone around.
Naturally, I perfectly understand the idiocy of my thoughts and feelings. I understand my egotic need of appreciation from others. But in that few meters of path, for once, I didn't feel a complete and eternal punter.
And this have no price.

On a lighter note, this is a preview of The Guru's new book on training.

A NEW TRAINING FOR CLIMBING BOOK+DVD (work in progress) from Climbingtraining on Vimeo.


Richie Crouch said...

I am psyched to see the Guru's video :)

Sounds like a nice trip out to Slovenia Lore. Keep beasting!

Ghostface said...

Delightful post Lore.

I can't wait to get back to the gym in time!