Saturday, 9 May 2009


The finger is quite fine. Success, maybe taking a huge amount of antiinflammatories and arnica and ice, plus the not serious injury made a good mix.
Talking about mixes, I would really like to treat myself with a nice aperitvo tonight, I may seriously invest 6 euros in a good cocktail teamed with peanuts, chips, slices of pizza, crostini, bruschetta, some pasta, ham and cheese omelette and all the things that it's now good fashion to offer in the good bars.
I should have been in Siena getting drunk with my friends tonight, but I chose to play it safe and stay here and go to the gym. I've almost completely cut the alcohol lately and I'm fine with that, one beer once in a while or a couple of glasses of wine are well enough to get me immediately tipsy.
The gym was deserted, I was all alone and thought how much this sense of dedication makes me feel good. I taped my injured finger and started to warm up. Well, going to the gym in the early afternoon, instead that late evening, does very good to your form; a few other things that also do very good to that, are being saturday, sleeping more and not working. D'oh.
Anyway I did some fingerboarding just to try some tests on good edges, then started climbing. I had plenty of time and that's another great thing. I've found out that the good sessions are: when you have so much time that you can rest, chill out, chat, and in general not to be bothered about said time, or when your schedule is so tight that you motor on with an eye always to the stop watch and another to the clock, like for lunchtime sessions. You get there, you quickly do your thing and you go away.
When you have time but not too much it's not that good though, like when I go to the gym let's say at 6,30 pm. You think you have time, and you do, but then you start being a bit casual with rests, and so on, and you soon find out it's already 9,30 pm and you still haven't done what you wanted and you don't want to stay in the gym 'til 11 pm.
Anyway, I climbed well and did two of my recently set problems, one under the 60° and one under the 45°. I had already done them, but cheating. Yes, cheating. I have set a new rule for my problems, and that is that you can't use the volumes, for example, in compression, or for your feet. Only the holds count. So I did again these two problems without passing through the volumes and they are defo harder. I am very happy. I also got very close to the third one, but at the time I was tired.
Amiata top again tomorrow. Psyched.
Enjoy this stupid video of the session, when you're alone you can be a fool without having to pay any price for it.


dontfollowme said...

Good point about time constraints. I tend to get to the wall late in the week to miss the traffic. I might need to rethink this.

Ghostface said...

Hahahahahahahahaha. Fucking priceless!!!!!

I'm worried that you can one arm these small edges with greater ease than I can pullup on a bar. Jesus christ man. See you very soon!

lore said...

it's all about the perfect cleaning of the shoes and always having three point of contact with the rock.