Saturday, 4 April 2009


I got to the point at which I really need to rest.
My shoulder is aching again, luckily (???) in a new spot.
My right middle finger is aching too.
My left thumb (???) is very very painful at the itersection with the palm.
Luckily again, I don't have anything scheduled, training wise, until thursday, so I'll kick back and enjoy the rest, if I can.
The last two weeks saw a glorious return under the campus board. I did some new routines, like long moves starting with a hand on 1 and one on 3, then throwing to 7. The first week I could latch 7 with the right hand, but not with the left. Last session I latched it with both hands every try, then I did the same with 4 kg on. Improvement.
I have also done 1-5 two handed on medium rugs (2,5 cm), and the cool "active" deadhangs of the last video. They work, 4 kg on again!!!
I am generally feeling good, and I know as soon as this new shoulder problem will disappear (it would have already, hadn't I trained on it, idiot) I could perform well.
I am relaxed, I enjoy training, especially the system excercises, and I have fun setting my own problems usually under the 45° or 60° walls.
Lately I am very happy about the vibes at th gym: I often train with a couple of friends (each one of us with different routines, but then we share them and we set and try new problems) and I rediscovered the joy of the good old abuse between friends. When I get to the gym I am usually greeted by a loud "Goddammit we will kick your ass so bad today", or by Cristiano (one of the gym owners) handling me a squash ball and racket with a grin on his face, saying "Try this". I play the role of the cool, and give my best on the walls. It's very cool and a good habit.
Finally, I found out why it's been worth going to the comp last week. A friend of mine was climbing in the second round, some guys were trying a problem that involved a dynamic start, and they were discussing various possibilities, when one came out and said "It can be done static. I saw one doing it static".
Guess who the one was? Heh, I just climbed three easy problems and this was enough to give me fame!!! Success!!!

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