Tuesday, 24 February 2009


I keep thinking about OOS Assis. At night especially, while waiting for a good sleep, I keep picturing myself at the last hard move, the slap to the arete, feeling and feeling that move again and again. Usually, these images are mixed with the memories of the failed attempts. I keep feeling also my hand not catching the arete, and I think "What if I hadn't caught it, that day?". Well, obviously I'd been disappointed and I'd have gotten back on the problem until success. It's so strange. The memory of a failure that's not possible anymore, because I have actually done the problem, keeps me awake at night. This really gives me the idea of the achievement.
I don't know. I was thinking, lately: well I almost did OOS Assis in late november. I trained three months to just do one move more? What would it have meant if I'd done it before training? Well, these questions will remain unanswered. What I really understand now is the effort this problem took from me. Could it be the overall most difficult thing I've ever done? Well, it could, because of many reasons: the setting and the rarity of good conditions there; the 15+ moves; the span between the holds and, finally the technical difficulty.
Suffice to say that doing OOS Assis gave me so much confidence about the roof direct. After trying it ten days ago, and sticking the move that seemed impossible four times in a row at the end of the day, everything changed perspective.
This does not mean that I will soon do the roof direct (I will, by the way), it just tells me that I have to keep the faith and the path.

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