Monday, 17 January 2011


These are the images: the first move and the dyno of "Mind the Gap Sitstart"; the lower moves of "Islero". Yesterday I retroflashed the first one but wasn't able to repeat the second. Good.

Now the reflections.
The thought of going to "Amber" on a single day trip, with an idea that wasn't just finding it, that is the idea of actually climbing the problem, was one of the fooliest thoughts I've ever had.
Simply, Font 8b is not my league. This doesn't mean that I won't climb that particular grade, it simply means that I have to try many, many different problems of that grade, until I find one that is particularly suited for me. The classic problem with my name on it. I just can't choose one problem because it's beautiful or because I won't need a spotter. I have to search and search.
I considered my "Amber Saga" an epic failure, in terms of the climbing itself, just because I didn't climb the problem. Reality is that it's just absolutely normal. But I am so stupid that I almost - almost - gave up on the idea of Font 8b, after that. It took my friend Filo's good sense to make me understand how much out of reality I was: he asked me "How many problems of that grade have you tried?" and I replied "One". He asked again "For how long?" and I replied "30 minutes". And it all became clear. I was out of reality, thinking that it was going to be possible that way. No, it will involve much more tears and toil than just driving 1000 kms and wandering in the snow for a few hours. That would have been simple.
So, the quest is on.

Then, the actual climbing. I feel good. I am still glowing in the bright light of triumph, that triumph that marked the beginning of the year, my glorious day at Chiesina. What a day. Perfect. There are not many days like that one in a year: the form, the conditions, the mind, the idea. I am glad I spent it there.
What I did in reality is not much. Just two moves. Naturellemont, these two small moves, just as the butterfly of the Chaos Theory, spun out enormous consequences.
Driving to the boulders, in that perfect light, I found myself wondering which was the best way to spend the day: after all, I had already done everything I wanted to, and the project that is still there, is far beyond my chances, for many reasons. Suddenly, clear as the sky, the idea appeared: I am going to repeat the roof direct, adding the first two moves (they had been skipped by the first ascensionist, who didn't like that crouched start). Boom.
The first ascent was made starting from the ramp, with three easy moves to the jug that marks the start of the difficulties. All subsequent ascents, to my knowledge, had been done starting from the jug itself, avoiding the greasy ramp. But the first two moves remained intact.
So, as you see, nothing special. Two "easy" moves into three easy moves. But it's not the moves, it's the form. In my mind, I took it back. Like a long lost son.

Finally, to make that day even more perfect, I conceived a new project.There's a hard line somewhere, and a possible different start. An eliminate for sure, given that I decided to ban a really good feature that would be perfect for the feet, but I don't care. The moves are great. The full problem will gain 5-6 moves, going up to 15-16 moves. Power endurance, innit? More power than endurance: yesterday I had my third session there, and I still haven't climbed the new start in a oner!!!

Sometimes I get a bit bored by all the difficulties of climbing: the spare time, the driving, the solitude. Now I know: a bored boulderer is a boulderer with no fantasy. There's always a new move to imagine.


martin said...

niiiiiiceeee rock, nice moves, nice spirit!!! keep the chaos ;)

greez, martin

lore said...

grande Martin!!!
thank you really, I'd be glad if you come south!
well, wait a minute. you'd probably crush those problems into dust...
stay away!!!
keep the chaos beast!!!

Pellet said...

bello bello lore! appena riesco ad organizzare vengo a trovarti e a prendermi delle belle e sane legnate nei tuoi posti!!