Friday, 18 September 2009


The gym is now fully running, with some decently clean holds that are rapidly turning black as usual. The use of liquid chalk is probably the biggest problem humanity has to face: the way it fills up every pore of every hold is hard to believe; add to that sweat and rubber and you'll understand why our planet is so under menace.
I am generally tired, despite working less. I think that it's due to finally having the chance to relax and kick back a little bit. It happens to me: as long as I know I have to face hard times, I tighten my fists and I go on blindly; when I finally can relax, all of a sudden all the efforts come at me with both fists and I start feeling the fatigue that I haven't felt before. Moreover, the mere thought of a structured training makes me shiver, and that's why I've spent the last two weeks just bouldering in the gym with no strict plan other than trying to either rip the holds from the walls or to link the most far apart holds. I have set a few very nice problems, and have then climbed them all, so they must be not very hard, but they climb well and provide what I look for: long moves, body tension and some fingery moves. I try to climb them as smoothly and controlled as I can and am quite happy about that. I am not strong and that's a fact: despite a general training during the summer, I haven't done anything very specific, just some weights and a little fingerboarding, but nothing that resembles a seriously specific and dedicated training.
Yesterday, feeling weak, I resolved to do a couple of circuits. As soon as I tied my chalkbag around my waist and started figuring out moves after moves, I heard some hidden talking in the gym "What's happening?... Is he really going for a circuit?..." After seeing me doing circuits, people in the gym could expect everything to happen, even donkeys to fly. Anyway I give my best as usual, and managed to flash a 25 moves long 7a on the 60° wall. Psyched out of my mind I set off on the 7c, same number of moves, same wall. On the flash I brilliantly fell on move number three. Tricky, I thought. Luckily The Guru himself was there, and with his aura of stamina permeating the air I was breathing, plus being showed the correct way to perform the move, I found inspiration again. On my second go I destroyed the circuit... until move 22. Then my forearms were so pumped and swollen that they started developing their own gravity force, attracting the walls of the gym... Well not really but that's how I felt.
So I left and ate a bowl of chicken salad, like almost every night.
Last sunday I scored a very brief session in a warm and humid Sasso. I did nothing, unable to stick on any slopey hold, but managed to cancel every dynamic move from "Scream" the wonderful arete right of "Spigolo Calibani". As static as it gets.
No climbing this weekend due to a conference in Rome about brain functions of the foetus (yes, you read correctly), and to bad weather.
I want to go to the Dolomites to climb the problem I tried last year. I can't think of having to wait another year.
Then, UK. It's always on my mind. I want to go, I need to go. I have never felt so good in any climbing area like I have felt at Plantation. Make whatever you want of this. Now go, love and destroy.

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