Thursday 20 August 2009

JESUS FUCKING CHRIST

Everything is getting a little bit too much on my nerves lately.
Temps steadily on the 40 degrees mark and getting home very late smashed from work isn't the perfect situation for psyching on the fingerboard.
On the matter, The Mother of All Fingerboards is a nasty whore in reality. The best hold to be held is a nice 1,5 cm edge. Then everything is either alot smaller or alot more slopey, or both. I've started to do pseudo problems on it, footless, trying to create the hardest combinations, that are still possible in the current heat. The other day I took a nasty fall slipping off from a sloper, I flew in the air backwards, my flip flops projected high in the air and the in the middle of the room, which is my living room, now completely covered in chalk..., and I landed on my bum, and ultimately on my right hand, the one I injured last summer. Anyway I shook it off and fired the problem next try, not without a serious committment.
I am deadly tired. Both physically and mentally. I fall asleep at night imagining myself on Rock Atrocity and wake up in the morning swearing against all know divinities because I feel smashed and have to get up and go to work. Luckily, the work, despite being very very hard at 8 hours a day, 4 of which in a single individual class, is absolutely great. Monday morning, for example I was feeling very sad and tired, but when the new student, a blond girl from Swizzy, came in, my life felt much much better. Still, I need more spare time. I decided that with this month's decent earnings, I will buy something nice for me for the next winter, possibly a down jacket. I thought that I could save this money and use it in a smarter way, but then I thought that if I work hard and I don't enjoy the money I earn, that's absolutely useless.
Anyway, it's now more than a month since I last climbed and I have no words to explain how much I miss it. I simply can't live without climbing. Big Malc once said that he could go on just with training, but I can't. I need to see myself floating on 8a's to stay truly motivated, because when I get home at night I am thrashed, but still I think that the best part of the day is about to start, the moment when I'll begin dangling and swinging from small pieces of wood. One day I will say what Jerry once said "I had done that month of training". If I won't do my next project I know that it won't be because of my lack of dedication and committment.

4 comments:

Ghostface said...

Lore, think of it this way. It's far too hot to climb outside in tuscany at the moment. You can manipulate internal conditions and push yourself to 8b standard for when I come and we make a trip to Amiata top or wherever.

Revel in training, crave training, forget about climbing for now. You better be keeping some of these hot females aside for me.

lore said...

damn right tom, but sometimes i really need to unleash, even if only for knowing where i'm at in terms of form. well, to be hones, it's fucking excellent to climb on rock... anyway.
my friend, i really look forward to climbing with you. i don't know if you'll find me at 8b or 6a standard, but i'll have a standard nontheless...
come south, the rock is good and the skirts are short.

Pellet said...

hey man, keep training hard! the reward on the rocks will be sweeeeet... i had my proof today after 3 (three) months off... to help you out a bit: BE LIKE JERRY!

Ghostface said...

8b, only 8b.