Wednesday, 25 March 2009


I went back to Varazze the Sunday past, and for the first time, I managed to climb well there, not to get an injury, not to make an idiot of myself (hard task...), and to be happy. The day was gorgeous, sunny, windy and cold: after the warmup we moved to a very nice, small, rounded boulder where we spent some time crushing all the lines, up to around 7a+ or the likes.
Unluckily at that time I was striken by a heavy lethargy attack: clearly just one coffee isn't enough for me in the morning. I started feeling very very tired, so I took my time and lots of food to try and do something on "Alfa Centauri", the main course for the day, where I wisely arrived at the end of said day. Despite having seen the video hundreds of times I couldn't figure out the feet placements, so I basically spent a few minutes dangling from poor holds feetless, a thing that marked the end of my day.
Somehow later I found some energy, and with some fresh blood my brain managed to create new possibilities, enabling me to perform all the moves. I can do the problem with some dedication now.

Then, about the roof.
Stepping into the gym and being faced by friends who say "Congratulations" and shake your hand is very pleasing: thank you all for that kindness.
I was thinking: how much did it take to do it?
I am training with The Guru from january 2006, but I sent the roof on my third session. Did it take me three years or three sessions? Obviously three sessions. Why? Because until a few months ago the roof was still in the "Unridden Realm". Impossible. Only when you have a certain level you can try something with some real chance of success. How do you get the level? By training three years. So it took me three years.
Well, it took me three years AND three sessions. Looking back I think the years have been easier than the sessions, because you can be prepared at your best, but you still have to climb the problem.
I hope to post some video soon.
One last note: while putting order in my training logbook, I realized I haven't rested for more than three days in a row from early june 2008 when I snapped my wrist.

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