Sunday, 18 August 2013


I am probably nothing more than an angry bastard at this stage, but since seeing it I've got to take this out. 
This is the reason to have a blog. 
Anyway, by "it" I mean the "Psicobloc Master Series in Utah" video. 
What utter bullshit. 
Ahh. Feeling better now. 
It's not epic. It's not defining the future of comps. It's not the greatest comp ever. It's just another American obsession for big things. What's the point? An 8a+ route for the girls and an 8c for the boyz (in da hood, da crew, my bruthaz): are you kidding me? They are the best in the world and to make them fall off all it takes is to raise a big board over a pool? 
Jesus fucking Christ: if you want to show your cajones, go to Pamplona the 7th of July and run with the bulls. 
I have to watch a modern climbing video from "big" productions or for "big" events, that I liked. 
I'd rather watch "Splinter" in a loop for every future session of my life, than watch the "Psicobloc" one another time. I didn't even manage to watch it full, I skipped through it. 
How, I ask, how can't they produce anythig better than that? Please, make some video of someone working hard on something, not just going for a dive in a pool: make it to show they're worth the sponsors, the money (not much I'm sure, but it's money for fucking climbing dammit!), the fame. 
Release a fucking video about Sasha on "Bellavista"! 
And please, please, please, tell them to try and speak as humans. There are many more, words in any language, than "epic", "rad", "a muerte", "venga", and the likes. There is an entire world of emotions that they must learn to express. I want to understand them as persons, more than just watch them as climbers. 
This is also why I can't read, for instance, Dave MacLeod's blog. It feels cold and distant to me. 
Then I bumped after a long time on Paul Robinson's blog. 
It was a long time since the last visit and will be even longer before a new one. Fuck me. Twenty words long posts, with half of the words being "psyched", "rad" and "crew". I get mad. Even more when they complain about bad weather on a trip. It never fucking rains under my board, you know?
They are transparent. 
You can see through them. 
Now I tell you what is really rad. It's the fucking 6 one armers I can still crank on my right arm, at 41 and half. 
It's not fucking over. God damn. 



Paul Bennett said...


funkazzista said...

Rad post, dude, even if I'd re-write the last sentence as:
"It's the fucking 6 one fucking armers I can still fucking crank on my fucking right arm, at fucking 41 and fucking half."

A muerte ;)

Unknown said...

sono perfettamente d'accordo con te. il mondo dei top climbers sembra popolato da una banda di deficienti incapaci di percepire qualsiasi sentimento. i loro blog sembrano scritti da bambini di 10 anni. sempre la solita storia, chi sa fare troppo bene una cosa, spesso non sa fare altro. per non parlare del fatto che gli sponsor vogliono che gli atleti si rivolgano ai low climbers, i più numerosi e spendaccioni. una razza di disperati ancor più mongoloidi che fanno il 5a e si comprano il completino montura da 400 euro e sei paia di futura. ma ci sono in tutti gli sport e in tutti gli hobby

martin said...

fu**ing BEAST ;)

tiralazanka said...