Sunday, 3 March 2013


I am sitting on the late bus to Florence, to sleep at The Guru's place and avoid waking up at six tomorrow morning. I went bouldering today, for the second day in a row, as usual at the Chiesina sector. I wasn't psyched at all, I wanted to go somewhere else and a friend of mine didn't, so I sacked it and we went there. 
Still feeling a bit disappointed by the balmy conditions and by my lack of skin, lack of training and lack of time, now, on the bus, it suddenly dawned to me that today I climbed the usual problems, but still I climbed 7a+, 7b, 7b+, 8a/+, 7c+/8a. 
I am really really puzzled. 


martin said...

lore going oooooonnnnnnn ;)

why are you puzzled? your body just shows you how it works ;)

when bouldering comes down to max-power, your body needs up to 72hrs (3days) to fully recover from the "inpact" (the older you are the longer)!!! this rest-time is cruical as your body adapts to the "inpact". when you "train" too early (the same exercises) the training before was just "for nothing" as you just kill the adapting process, and this process is what makes you STRONG(er).

--> when you have a solid climbing technique and you are an experianced climber and not 20anymore: 2short, intense boulderingsessions a week is enough to keep your level and even to improove (when you go for MAX; you should not even feel too tired, when you feel totally wrecked,it was too much. when you go for resistance or endurance you have to train for more and more hours...)

so have one solid max session a week and one day fun with friends at the weekend on the boulders and you will just keep crushing and have a lot of time for all the (other) nice things life has to offer ;)

martin, on the way to my first 3a toprope since 5months... ;)

lore said...

Thanks Martin!!! And most of all I'm really happy to read that you're back with your climbing shoes on!!!
Crush my friend, crush!!!

Bendecorme said...

Vaya parece que todo empieza a funcionar......Enhorabuena !!!!!!!!

lore said...

Jaja! Muchas gracias Ben! Por el momento sigo escalando siempre en los mismos lugares, los mismos problemas, y me gustaria muchisimo bajar un poco los grados pero escalar nuevos problemas en zonas nuevas. Pues, para decir la verdad lo que me gustaria mas seria escalar nuevos problemas y realzar los grados!!! ;-)

Bendecorme said...

Jajajajaja, te espero entonces este verano..........

Tavis said...

Lore, I am really enjoying your blog. Everything from the ideas for training to the sends to the existential pondering over what it means, this relationship between man and stone. Top notch, I hope to learn more as I go back further.

lore said...

Hay Tavis, I was really surprised to find your comments, but pleased as well. I'm not writing much as of late, it's really hard to find the time, and also, to get a picture of what's happened and is happening to my life.
Everything is changing.
I'm glad you liked my word, but please be sure that I can't teach anything to anyone (Italian language apart!!!).