Monday, 21 December 2009


I dont' know whether a team of three could be considered a "team of epic proportions", fact is that we stormed over Amiata nonetheless yesterday. Filo, Tommy and I were the ones who took the chance to boulder in a peaceful, wonderful, sticky setting. Beware: if you live in Tuscany and you weren't bouldering yesterday, you're not a boulderer.
A crisp layer of snow welcomed us when we arrived at Chiesina, the sun was shining and the light was amazing. As usual none of us had brought a camera. Anyway, fueled by the good conditions, good company and good weather, good form followed. We crushed. I felt very good, made quick repeats of a few problems and had my moment of glory with a nearly retro flash of the roof direct. I sat there, put my feet on, pulled and got the good hold, so I proceeded, got the undercling, swapped feet and went for the small crimp: as I set my body for the move, I felt a new sensation, a sensation of steadiness and power on that move. My body was as solid as the roof itself (maybe my back was just frozen), so I got the crimp with all the calm of the world. Filo and Tommy started shouting at me "Vai Lore! Vai Lore!", I set my feet again for the final dyno and was quite sure to make it, but when I charged the move, my right hand all of a sudden ripped from the crimp and the magic disappeared, to leave room only to my screams of pain. My right hand fingers was numb and aching at the same time. I think I have never experienced that kind of pain before. I think I ripped because my skin was too cold.
When I recovered from the shock of this unexpected pain, I tried a few moves on Caminati's 8b/+ project under the same roof, a terribly hard sequence with a long, long, neverending dyno to a good edge and then a full body compression exit. He nearly did it the last time he was here, and I think he'll do it next time. In any case he need not rush, I'm not going to steal him this first ascent!
Filo and Tommy both put together good links on the respective projects, and when the sun began to be very low, we called it a day and shook hands, big smiles everywhere.
Walking away, the snow was still very crispy despite having been all day in the sun. Every step reminded me of how much I love this.
Stay strong my friends.

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