Sunday, 2 November 2008


The first one is mine: going bouldering today has been a very stupid choice, despite the initial psyche. Over 20°, again, Goddammit, Godfuckingdammit, I can't stand it no more. Plus clouds and humidity. I didn't do a single problem above 6a, and the only good things were some good chatting with a local, and again climbing without tape. Moreover, a mega traffic jam on the way back, I got stuck and it took me four fucking hours to get back home, double as usual and more or less the same as coming back from Cresciano.
The second one is of one of the locals of where I was today. I already knew his singular grading policy, but today I got some confirmations that he's just a real idiot. The local guy who I was climbing with today is one of his friends, and still he told me "He's paranoid about grades" about him, as we were trying one of his problems: a traverse, that he gave originally 7c after freeing it, that quickly he brought down to 7b/7b+. Now it's given 7a/7a+, with someone already talking about barely 7a. Why, you sure want to know. Because they (he and his band of psychotics) downgrade problems when they are repeated by someone who, in their opinion, is not strong. I couldn't believe what I was being told, literally. A sort of Gill scale, but fifty years later, and with just a subjective, personal and arbitrary perspective.
The third form is again mine. I always pay too much attention to what others think, and often I can never distinguish between the ones who deserve respect and attention, and the ones who are just idiots. I respect the second ones far too much sometimes, instead of just laughing at their stupidity and mala fides. Yes, because now I think that not everyone practice fair play. I don't mean that they don't send the problems, they do, but then they use their ability to confuse the others, instead of to inform them, to humiliate the others, instead of to cheer them. They use their ability and talent, which are big, as a weapon against others, in a battle that's fought to deprive everyone else but them of the search for improvement, for progress. In this battle they fight to steal you your time, the time you put into your training, because you'll never get good, because as soon as you'll climb a grade harder, they will erase that grade, and you will find yourself at the starting point again, having lost your trophy again. I hate him, I hate his comrades, I hate their idiocy and I hate mine, because only now I can see it. Before, I could just see wads crushing big grades, now I can only see poor remainings of humans, deprived of happiness, whose only source of pleasure is in this sadic game, in which, sadly, until today I played a sorry role: the idiot.

1 comment:

Fiend said...

3rd form of idiocy is a good point and a worthy rant, interesting to read.