FASCISM AND GRANITE

It's monday, so here ends the suspension of judgement. On thursday night, I decided to go to Swizzy with a friend, leaving on friday afternoon, so I didn't want to say anything beforehand, preferring to let the granite speak for me and then, just as I'm going to do now, just translate the granite's words.

But first one thing: Italy is full of fascist sacks of shit. The bastards, young idiots with too much spare time and too little culture and brain cells, are assaulting and beating every kind of immigrants here. Naturally, these modern heroes of the race are clever just enough to chose really well their targets: undernourished slaves from the Far East just out of a 16 hours shift, african sellers of fake Louis Vuitton bags, and the likes. May the day come soon, when these modern Neanderthals will bump into a former Vietnamese MMA champ, or in a retired NFL linebacker with 9 pints of beer into his guts.

The granite words now.

"Hey it's cool to have you here again, long time no see uh? I'm sorry it's hot mate, but hey, in a few weeks I'll be under feet of snow, so please deal with it, relax and do your best.

Now, what have you been doing in the last year? Um, I see, training. Nice, nice. Still you're quite average, but you're improving, I'm happy about that, but you shouldn't try crimpy vertical stuff, it's not your game, go under some roofs and have some more fun!"

I listened to the granite words, and had fun. The granite is always right. I did a couple of 7a's and 7b's very quickly or flashed, and a final nameless 7c. Success.

I tried some problems that I have on my ticklist: Doctor Crimp is super painful, it's crimpy (D'Oh!) and sharp, very painful. But Souvenir is great (Fred Nicole, you are a wad, you were a wad when you did it in 1988, you will be a wad when you'll do laps on it at 76 years old), and the problem on its left (Blochx Addiction) is just amazing. I keep adding names to the ticklist and taking other names off, it's a growing process.

Finally, Ty Landman was there on the very same days. Seeing what he ticked, and having touched a few of those problems, I can tell you are a mutant strong mo fo, and I say it with the deepest respect, even if you are so young that you could be my son.

Last but not least, it's been very good to put in alot of volume, along with the high intensity, because I had alot to give during the whole day for both days.

I just can't wait to go back, hopefully with cool temps this time, and with stronger fingers, fingers so strong that they will lead me to think that "No Mistery" is 7c+...

Mikael and Carolina, it's been super cool to meet you there again!!!

EPOKE'

Until Monday.

THE ANKLE SESSIONS. SMASHED!!!

Before hurting my ankle, I had put serious efforts in training, to reap the reward on rock. The immediate effect of my injury has been, so long, a burning desire to train even more. If I can't tick outside now, I think, I must work for when I'll able to.

So in the last month, more or less, I have trained five or six days a week, until yesterday night. A few days ago one finger started telling me "easy man, I'm no titanium tendon"; then it started moaning "well ok, he will stop sooner or later..." and finally "for fucks sake gimme rest dammit!!!".

I'm resting for at least two days so, probably three. I still feel quite good, but clearly I've lost the flow in my climbing, and momentum. I have climbed powerfully in the last sessions, but kind of heavily, really beasting my way up problems more than walking up them. Moreover, I've put in alot of volume and alot of high intensity: due to my appetite and gluttony, and despite going to the gym earlier every night, I still have trained until 10 30 pm every session. My forearms now, ache after three moves. I need rest.

So, some other news are that I've got a new class for the next week in another school, which makes me very happy but makes going to Swizzy far more complicated. We will see.

I want to try some climbing this weekend, but am not very keen about going again to Sasso: I have OOS Sit, of course, but probably the heel hooking is still far too strenuous for my ankle, and moreover, I want to do new problems. I'd like very much to go back to Varazze, home land of power monster Core, where everything is quite hard-core (Ah Ah!!!). I have one problem in mind, that has a stand up start and a sitter. Even getting the stand up would be a great feat and my first Core tick, so I want to go there and start getting to grips with it, I'm sure it will be a long battle. If, then, I go there and crush it, even better.