"How many times son?"
"Twice recently."
"Did you enjoy it?"
"Yes, father."
Thursday I did that thing with the rope again. With the top rope, in my case. I went with excellent friends Cristiano and Niccolò to a close crag, a slightly overhanging wall with sharp holds. I have to say that Niccolò turned into a monster: he was literally waltzing up a 30 meter long 8a where I was struggling on every move. I managed to flash a 30... moves 7b, and that made me happy. After an initial section of 6c, you get to a decent rest on a flat edge, then you cruise up the final 4 meters wall on drilled pockets via long locks. It felt absolutely piss, on every pocket I could feel my power getting back. Later I checked a shorter, more powerful 7c+ (hard for me), getting all the moves done, and tried an absolutely hopeless second go redpoint attempt with nothing left in my fingertips.
I have understood some things: I can do averagely well on a top rope, also on routes that are not my style. I have big weaknesses on monos (too many injuries in the past make it impossible for me to train monos, unless I manage to get myself a Beastmaker, one thing that I really want to do soon even if I don't know where to put it), and on sharp crimps (why did I go to a crag that only features monos and sharp crimps is a mistery to many), while I am ok on technique and other stuff.
I have absolutely no idea of leading a route.
Well, finally temps hit the mighty 40° mark the other day. It's generally 30° in the gym, and today I will have to face another system boarding session on pinches. I wonder how will a dry, fresh, granite pinch feel under my fingertips after these sessions. Quite good I bet...
This next week I will train again, then I'll have one week off, then I'll start the weights program.
On the summer agenda: Dolomites, to do that fucking "Redline" and hopefully "Dolomitenmann" along with some multipitch routes; one weekend in Innsbruck. Not much I know for an entire summer of blood, toil and tears in the gym, but that's what you get when you find a job that you like.
On the matter, tonight I have a dinner with my conversation students, a couple from Slovackia, a Colombian girl, a Turkish girl and two Japanese girls that make for a bunch that's fun as fuck. They are a blessing.
On another matter, the totty is absolutely out in full fucking force. I am glad I don't have to teach anymore to that German girl because sometimes it was just too... haem...hard.
Sharp crimps and monos tomorrow again, forgive me father.
"Twice recently."
"Did you enjoy it?"
"Yes, father."
Thursday I did that thing with the rope again. With the top rope, in my case. I went with excellent friends Cristiano and Niccolò to a close crag, a slightly overhanging wall with sharp holds. I have to say that Niccolò turned into a monster: he was literally waltzing up a 30 meter long 8a where I was struggling on every move. I managed to flash a 30... moves 7b, and that made me happy. After an initial section of 6c, you get to a decent rest on a flat edge, then you cruise up the final 4 meters wall on drilled pockets via long locks. It felt absolutely piss, on every pocket I could feel my power getting back. Later I checked a shorter, more powerful 7c+ (hard for me), getting all the moves done, and tried an absolutely hopeless second go redpoint attempt with nothing left in my fingertips.
I have understood some things: I can do averagely well on a top rope, also on routes that are not my style. I have big weaknesses on monos (too many injuries in the past make it impossible for me to train monos, unless I manage to get myself a Beastmaker, one thing that I really want to do soon even if I don't know where to put it), and on sharp crimps (why did I go to a crag that only features monos and sharp crimps is a mistery to many), while I am ok on technique and other stuff.
I have absolutely no idea of leading a route.
Well, finally temps hit the mighty 40° mark the other day. It's generally 30° in the gym, and today I will have to face another system boarding session on pinches. I wonder how will a dry, fresh, granite pinch feel under my fingertips after these sessions. Quite good I bet...
This next week I will train again, then I'll have one week off, then I'll start the weights program.
On the summer agenda: Dolomites, to do that fucking "Redline" and hopefully "Dolomitenmann" along with some multipitch routes; one weekend in Innsbruck. Not much I know for an entire summer of blood, toil and tears in the gym, but that's what you get when you find a job that you like.
On the matter, tonight I have a dinner with my conversation students, a couple from Slovackia, a Colombian girl, a Turkish girl and two Japanese girls that make for a bunch that's fun as fuck. They are a blessing.
On another matter, the totty is absolutely out in full fucking force. I am glad I don't have to teach anymore to that German girl because sometimes it was just too... haem...hard.
Sharp crimps and monos tomorrow again, forgive me father.
1 comment:
P.O.W.E.R.
Hey and save me some of these girls can you!?
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