Sunday, 30 December 2007
Friday, 28 December 2007
Thursday, 27 December 2007
Tuesday, 18 December 2007
Sunday, 16 December 2007
Friday, 14 December 2007
It's what I feel after getting next monday morning off, to go and try to complete Out of Service. If I manage to find someone to come with me, spot me and testify my success to doubtful souls.
It will be my only climbing chance in many weeks, and the first one since months in good - hopefully - conditions: the weather should stay as it's been in the last four days, clear and cold.
Forecast say something like -3°, with a solid NE wind to give a -12° wind chill on your body to bear. I may as well keep my hat for the successful, barechested attempt.
Mediocre gym session yesterday, doing moves I couldn't do before, but some lack of something. Maybe joy. I want to work more on my left arm lock off.
Someone is spreading out news about me, about my training regime and physical progresses, as I noticed again yesterday night. I met a climber I hadn't seen or talked to in a year and half, and he said "oh I know you're strong, you train alot, show me something" and so on. It's strange, also because he's alot stronger than me.
I'm pissed because I can't post pics from my digicam, have to buy a new cable.
I hope my anglosaxon friends of all kinds, I mean from Mother UK and from the Colonies, will come and visit me soon.
Wednesday, 12 December 2007
Tuesday, 11 December 2007
Monday, 10 December 2007
Anyway, all this strangeness will soon come to an end, given that from tomorrow I'll be working everyday for a few weeks.
Naturally, and all of you climbers take note, the weather will improve, dry and sticky conditions will arrive, and bouldering areas all around will be full of happy slappers, and, I'm sure, alot of girls bouldering and desperately searching for romance.
As it may not appear from the above, I'm very pissed.
Saturday night I was tempted to go and sleep in the van in Sasso, but the last 48 hours of rain made that a bad idea. The boss will give us some spare free hours, officially to go buy shit-mas presents, and I think I'll try to have an entire morning off to be spent under Out of Service, the most recent Nemesis of my climbing.
This is the week of rest and supercompensation. Four days off, something I haven't had for months now, should pay off.
The Guru is a real professional. Yesterday night he and girlfriend were at my place for dinner, and while chatting I explained my plans, taking a morning off, going to Sasso on the 25th and 26th, and so on.
This morning, I found his e-mail, with all the new settings of the training program, tailor made on my plans.
As soon as I get the cable from the other house, I'll post some pics about some changes in my body, something dealing with...forearms.
Still, I really really suck on plastic. I'm so poor, compared to other climbers that train alot less than me, that it's depressing. Luckily, there is always the fingerboard to cheer me up.
I finally have internet on my laptop, and I feel like the God of Technology.
Sunday, 9 December 2007
I tend to get very angry when I feel someone is there just to get something he, or she, doesn't really need, but just because it comes very cheap.
Then one day I realized that, amongst all the ones who just don't care, there may be someone who really needs that 50% off.
The lesson is that I have to take time, and try to understand people, before getting angry.
So, who should I care for more?
I will always try to give the lady the worst, most expensive, most useless piece of shit we have in the shop, and will always take the boy's smile for the moments when I think this world is a shithole.
Monday, 3 December 2007
Saturday, 1 December 2007
It's like if we're giving away stuff for free.
At one moment I had two men for carving skis and three kids for ski boots. All the kids were named Lorenzo, and they were running around in the shop with ski boots on, their parents were calling them and each time I heard "Lorenzo" I turned.
Anyway, tomorrow, with mediocre forecast, I'll head to Sasso and Out of Service.
Another week of puling passed. Yesterday night the guru, very wisely suggested to change the session from power endurance to pure power, to shock my white fibers for tomorrow success.
Friday, 30 November 2007
Sunday, 25 November 2007
- Monday: negatives on good hold, 5" time of descent, 3 reps, 3 set per arm, 5' rests. One armed bouldering on vertical wall, 2 problems of 6 moves, 4 reps each.
- Tuesday: one arm deadhangs on 1 cm edge, 3" for 8 times per arm, 3' rests. Dynoes between good holds on 30° wall.
- Wednesday: as Monday, but bouldering moving both arms at a time.
- Thursday: as Tuesday, but high intensity wall.
- Friday: as Monday, but high intensity wall.
It's been really hard, considering also working from 9 to 19 30.
Anyway, I survived and was feeling better each session. Tomorrow I start again the campus board week. I have at least two really hard sessions, on Tuesday and Friday: 147 on 2 cm edge, 6 reps per arm straight away, 6 sets each arm, 8' rests; then 4 problems on 45° wall just below my limit, 6 consecutive goes, 2 reps each problem, 8' rests. I wonder how I'll get home, and at what time...
Tom, are you still keen?
I'm very proud that this blog has been linked on Dobbin's one. Thankyou.
Monday, 19 November 2007
I don't know.
Yesterday I postponed climbing for a lunch with family friends: at first I was very pissed, but then it turned nice, it was ages since the last time we met, and my friend's father had been very ill, so now that he's fine it was really good to eat together and have a laugh.
When the conversation went on politics, with the random fascist talking, teo-con thinking, I quickly escaped.
Anyway, today I start an eleven weeks training program.
It's a good day to start, because I don't work, and I am facing - Tom, you listen carefully ok? - a five sessions week followed by another five sessions week.
The guru thinks it would be a nice change to set every week with a dominant tool: fingerboard, campusboard, or wall.
So in a few hours I'll be doing negatives on edges, in a week sets of six consecutives 147's, and in two weeks laps on boulder problems over my limit.
To say I'm excited is nothing.
Last monday I went with the guru to try Out of Service. Unluckily, I didn't rewarded him with the much awaited send, but I think, judging by his commment on one post here, that he was happy. I literally hiked the whole problem for four times, to just lose my heel and fall on the last really hard moves.
I'm thinking sometimes to the real grade of that problem. I spoke with the guy who did it, and he told me that at the time he was in the best shape ever, at 51 kilos...
He has absolutely no idea about grades, especially on fingery problems.
I think Out of Service is hard 7c+ for tall people, 8a for shorties. It's technical, precarious, muscular, condition dependant and, yes, morphologically fantastic.
I do eleven moves to get the lip, my taller friends six, my tallest friend four.
Friday, 16 November 2007
Sunday, 11 November 2007
Wednesday, 7 November 2007
Monday, 5 November 2007
Thursday, 1 November 2007
It's cold, it's clear, it's bouldering time.
I had a good session yesterday, dead hangs on the small holds, and then ripped the campus board: 1-5-roof again right hand, and then more.
Let's pack the car.
Wednesday, 31 October 2007
Tuesday, 30 October 2007
Monday, 29 October 2007
Sunday, 28 October 2007
The lawyer and the teacher, my parents, told me that they are ashamed of me, and that they don't want their friends to know that I'm going to work in a climbing shop, "because their sons have found their ways".
Saturday, on the other hand, we went to Serena's party in the hills surrounding Florence. There was a big fire with meat cooking, and a 20 kg pig in the oven. I got very drunk, and as I was taking a pee in the wood with the light of the moon so bright and the music coming from all around me, I thought that life is really magnificent.
I don't need much else than saturday night.
There were tons of people, everybody was taking goes at the instruments and singing, while inside they were playing and dancing Tango.
I almost didn't eat anything, but drank alot of Nero d'Avola and Negramaro and more than once missed my brit friends.
At one o' clock I was so tired I barely made it to the bed. Dead corpses everywhere.
We took the house. It's one minute from where girlfriend works, ten minutes from my work, two minutes from the wall: in one of the most traffic jammed cities in Italy, that's not bad at all.
Yes yes fucking yes.
Friday, 26 October 2007
Thursday, 25 October 2007
Wednesday, 24 October 2007
Tuesday, 23 October 2007
Saturday, 20 October 2007
I did quite bad at the Regionals. Most of all, I climbed very bad. Flashed problems missing hand and foot holds, and never got into it, with the injured wrist always there, in the deepest back of my mind, taking away concentration and will to crush.
I texted my frustration to Keith, and he really cheered me up, but at first didn't suggest me the right strategy to victory: thinking "what would jerry do?" obviously.
Anyway, I'm pissed because I found myself behind people that I think are assholes: namely the stupid guy I found one time at the Melloblocco who told me: "yes we're here too, you know, just for fun, we are used to have the valley all for ourselves, you know, we used to come here many years ago, now everybody's here...".
I'm glad past year I crushed him, and I'm sure he cheated, even if I know it's not true and it was impossible because there were judges.
I'm pissed, I'm pissed, I'm pissed. I was in top form, tip top condition, as Ben Moon would say in front of a Sloggy advert in Font, and I injured my fucking wrist. Fuck, fuck, fuck.
The guru crushed the place. He's the man and he deserves it.
Friday, 19 October 2007
Wednesday, 17 October 2007
I really miss you here. I've spent very little time with a few of you (esp. Tom), more with others, but regardless of this, our friendships made me so richer.
So thank you, really, for sharing my passion and time. Thank you for that little ego busting that allows me to be less insecure, and maybe get to the next hold, but thank you also for keeping me with my feet well planted on the ground, for being voices outside of the chorus, for being dedicated.
Thank you for being out there but taking the time to read and post here.
Tuesday, 16 October 2007
Sunday, 14 October 2007
Plan for the week:
- Tomorrow, finding a job.
- Wednesday, going back to sasso, sending "Out of service" third try.
- Saturday, winning the Regionals, getting a sponsorship, resigning from work.
Friday, 12 October 2007
Thursday, 11 October 2007
Thursday, 4 October 2007
My excitement is growing by the hour. Tomorrow morning we will leave for a few days in Ticino, slapping granite. As usual, my expectations are so high I'm actually scared. Still, lately I don't find it fun to take it easy: this has led many times to getting back home with no problems ticked, but the effort put into it, in my opinion, is a reward in itself. It comes from committment and it is the opposite of failure, the latter being, to me, not dedicating yourself enough to your goals.
Just as the drunk, I'm telling to myself "don't do like the last time", wandering around throwing my pad under every problem, despite form, friction, fatigue. I hope I can manage to stay focused on few problems, and to be able to give the best for them.
What else? I probably ate too much garlic yesterday night.