Tuesday, 17 November 2009

MOVING NORTH

The plan is to go North and destroy Chironico. As simple as that.
Costo
87.01 EUR
Pedaggio 21.50 EUR | Carburante 38.51 EUR | Bollino autostradale 27.00 EUR
Tempo
03h55 di cui 03h34 su strade a scorrimento veloce
Distanza
396 km di cui 384 km su strade a scorrimento veloce
I must be fucking nuts. As simple as that.

Sunday, 15 November 2009

MOVING SIDEWAYS

Today I stole a few hours on rock. Despite the cloudy sky, I drove and got the reward, in terms of a very good afternoon of pulling on small, nasty holds at a small area in the Amiata range.
I only did traverses!
After a brief warmup that involved two problems that I seriously doubt pass the 6a mark, I saw a couple of holds under the moss, that could have been a nice exit for an already existing traverse. After some dirt scrubbing, other two holds appeared and I was ready for a go. One go was all I needed: I got to the mantle pumped (25 ish moves...) but I topped out, happy to be alone again in a red, yellow, green, brown wood. It's incredible how noisy can the falling leaves be. It's incredible how little I need to feel happy.
Full of glory for this new link, that I have obviously dubbed "The Full Monty", I decided I would give a go to a problem I did many years ago. Well, I didn't leave the ground. Given that the problem involves just one move, I failed miserably. Ah! I wonder how I managed to do it that day! That's brilliant and one of the hardest moves I've ever done. Maybe I failed because it wasn't a traverse.
Last but not least I worked the hard hard exit of yet another traverse that I have sent during the summer on holds that would make Keith scream in terror just by looking at them: edges that we call "dog's teeth". 'nuff said.
Anyway this traverse is BRILLIANT. There is a very very hard move, to get a poor edge far right, then somehow you have to stay there, bring the left foot high up and then somehow gain the lip. It's amazing. I am so happy. I still haven't done the last two moves, but I have done all the rest and am confident to do it in the next ten years ;-).
My fingers are eaten, my body is worked and my mind is free.
Beastie Boys live.

Tuesday, 10 November 2009

BACK TO SCHOOL

The only holidays I've had this year, are represented by these last four months, in which I didn't do any specifically climbing related training. During the summer, as you may remember, I just moved iron around in a boiling, sweaty, deserted gym. At mid august I hit my lowest by doing two hours long fingerboard sessions in a small, boiling, sweaty, deserted house. Every fucking day.
Then, came september, and finally temps dropped below the 35° mark. It was time to hit the gym again, but my mental energy levels were at around minus 273° so I decided to just let it go and simply boulder without any plan.
It's been fun, but as usual I didn't realize that pulling on plastic four days a week as hard as I could, would have led me to overtraining...
Anyway, after almost one week off (just two sessions), school is on again. The Guru's mind gave birth to another training plan, aimed to mutation. I already feel my DNA changing, it started from the haircut.