Went to the gym yesterday, despite having promised not to, but yes, I've sinned again. I nearly scored my first time on a sport route in years, but the guys were already gone to the crag and a two hours drive on my own just to go and get terrified on a toprope wasn't an interesting option. Next time, though, I definitely want to go, but with the added pleasure of sharing the drive and the usual verbal abuse which is always a good habit.
Then, the gym. I've spent the last three or four sessions setting new problems, and trying or dong them. They are usually hard so I get really tired just by trying the moves and after a few redpoint tries I have to take big rests. So the process is to tweak them, adding one foot or a crucial intermediate, so that I can complete them, and then go back to the original sequence. I found this process very useful, because in completing the problem you get a good motivational boost, and also, more important, you can exactly do every move with the exact amount of effort. You learn the problem, you save energy on every move.
This is, I think, what I lack the most now. As I joke, I often say that I use the same energy on 6a's and on 7c's. Well, it's not that false. When I see The Guru climb, I know that he uses all his body, he has the sensibility to grip the holds just with the minimum power enabling him to hold them, and leaves the rest on the feet. So this should be my aim. Naturally, I fully understand that not moving out of the 60° wall in the last month, this sensibilization process will take a while...
Anyway, now my left ring finger is a bit painful, and I can't blame it. Talking about fingers, yesterday while driving in the traffic, one car cut the way just in front of me, so I honked and waived my hands like the national costume is, only to receive a middle finger from an eight years old girld in the back seat. I wanted to chase the car to tell the lady driver that now she had to step up and take her daughter's responsibility and back her up, but I didn't. One smart thing done. Success.
The vulgarity that youngsters are capable of, is miles beyond anything I could have done at their age. Well, young ones have no respect, seasons have changed, years ago here there were only fields. Stereotypes.
Finally, tape.
I taped the problems that I'd set in the gym, as of late, because they were nice problems and fun to try for the dedicated ones, obviously a bit on the hard side of the scale.
Yesterday I found the tape ripped off, but only until arm height, clearly the use of a ladder to complete the job was too much. So I collected the ripped tape, that was on the ground, I taped it to the wall with a bit of new tape and wrote on the tape "Envy?"
I know a few people in the gym think I am an asshole, but really I don't care. I'd like to know who ripped the tape off, and why. I don't think the gym's owners, because they don't care and they're not stupid. I think someone who knows me. But really, the poorest of lives...
Then, the gym. I've spent the last three or four sessions setting new problems, and trying or dong them. They are usually hard so I get really tired just by trying the moves and after a few redpoint tries I have to take big rests. So the process is to tweak them, adding one foot or a crucial intermediate, so that I can complete them, and then go back to the original sequence. I found this process very useful, because in completing the problem you get a good motivational boost, and also, more important, you can exactly do every move with the exact amount of effort. You learn the problem, you save energy on every move.
This is, I think, what I lack the most now. As I joke, I often say that I use the same energy on 6a's and on 7c's. Well, it's not that false. When I see The Guru climb, I know that he uses all his body, he has the sensibility to grip the holds just with the minimum power enabling him to hold them, and leaves the rest on the feet. So this should be my aim. Naturally, I fully understand that not moving out of the 60° wall in the last month, this sensibilization process will take a while...
Anyway, now my left ring finger is a bit painful, and I can't blame it. Talking about fingers, yesterday while driving in the traffic, one car cut the way just in front of me, so I honked and waived my hands like the national costume is, only to receive a middle finger from an eight years old girld in the back seat. I wanted to chase the car to tell the lady driver that now she had to step up and take her daughter's responsibility and back her up, but I didn't. One smart thing done. Success.
The vulgarity that youngsters are capable of, is miles beyond anything I could have done at their age. Well, young ones have no respect, seasons have changed, years ago here there were only fields. Stereotypes.
Finally, tape.
I taped the problems that I'd set in the gym, as of late, because they were nice problems and fun to try for the dedicated ones, obviously a bit on the hard side of the scale.
Yesterday I found the tape ripped off, but only until arm height, clearly the use of a ladder to complete the job was too much. So I collected the ripped tape, that was on the ground, I taped it to the wall with a bit of new tape and wrote on the tape "Envy?"
I know a few people in the gym think I am an asshole, but really I don't care. I'd like to know who ripped the tape off, and why. I don't think the gym's owners, because they don't care and they're not stupid. I think someone who knows me. But really, the poorest of lives...
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