I was thinking about the gym yesterday night, and about the fact that I can't climb for shit there. I nearly sent one hard problem, doing every move static, in control, but blowing it twice at the end, with my feet slipping away.
Ok, I want to use crap shoes in the gym, because I think it helps me when I use good shoes outside, so I can't complain about feet slippage. But I think that now, after the last two months (years) of serious training, I have to learn how to climb again, accordingly to my improved physical abilities. I slipped because I climbed poorly, and because my left foot had only a few kilos on. Should I have pressed it firmly on the hold, it wouldn't have slipped. It would have stayed put, and i would have sent.
I can't have an average technique and a brutal power (that I don't have, anyway), because I would be ridiculous. My feet have to work just as my arms do: at their best. That's what makes the difference between strong climbers and good climbers. The first ones are just strong, the good ones send.
Ok, for sure I don't want be hindered by lack of fire power, but now it's time to take a step forward. I can still remember the feeling of my right foot so unloaded, so passive, on one of last tries on "Il Signore degli Anelli", while my buddy was putting every gram of his weight on it, getting very close to the send. It was sad and ridiculous at the same time: sad for me, ridiculous and grotesque for the others to watch.
This afternoow we leave for the friends' house. I hope I can get some climbing tomorrow, even if it's going to snow there today. Maybe on tuesday, who knows.
I am a bit sad now, because all this thinking to my weaknesses. My past efforts fade, and they seem worthless.
Luckily I know they're not.
HAPPY NEW YEAR.