Friday, 30 November 2007
Sunday, 25 November 2007
- Monday: negatives on good hold, 5" time of descent, 3 reps, 3 set per arm, 5' rests. One armed bouldering on vertical wall, 2 problems of 6 moves, 4 reps each.
- Tuesday: one arm deadhangs on 1 cm edge, 3" for 8 times per arm, 3' rests. Dynoes between good holds on 30° wall.
- Wednesday: as Monday, but bouldering moving both arms at a time.
- Thursday: as Tuesday, but high intensity wall.
- Friday: as Monday, but high intensity wall.
It's been really hard, considering also working from 9 to 19 30.
Anyway, I survived and was feeling better each session. Tomorrow I start again the campus board week. I have at least two really hard sessions, on Tuesday and Friday: 147 on 2 cm edge, 6 reps per arm straight away, 6 sets each arm, 8' rests; then 4 problems on 45° wall just below my limit, 6 consecutive goes, 2 reps each problem, 8' rests. I wonder how I'll get home, and at what time...
Tom, are you still keen?
I'm very proud that this blog has been linked on Dobbin's one. Thankyou.
Monday, 19 November 2007
I don't know.
Yesterday I postponed climbing for a lunch with family friends: at first I was very pissed, but then it turned nice, it was ages since the last time we met, and my friend's father had been very ill, so now that he's fine it was really good to eat together and have a laugh.
When the conversation went on politics, with the random fascist talking, teo-con thinking, I quickly escaped.
Anyway, today I start an eleven weeks training program.
It's a good day to start, because I don't work, and I am facing - Tom, you listen carefully ok? - a five sessions week followed by another five sessions week.
The guru thinks it would be a nice change to set every week with a dominant tool: fingerboard, campusboard, or wall.
So in a few hours I'll be doing negatives on edges, in a week sets of six consecutives 147's, and in two weeks laps on boulder problems over my limit.
To say I'm excited is nothing.
Last monday I went with the guru to try Out of Service. Unluckily, I didn't rewarded him with the much awaited send, but I think, judging by his commment on one post here, that he was happy. I literally hiked the whole problem for four times, to just lose my heel and fall on the last really hard moves.
I'm thinking sometimes to the real grade of that problem. I spoke with the guy who did it, and he told me that at the time he was in the best shape ever, at 51 kilos...
He has absolutely no idea about grades, especially on fingery problems.
I think Out of Service is hard 7c+ for tall people, 8a for shorties. It's technical, precarious, muscular, condition dependant and, yes, morphologically fantastic.
I do eleven moves to get the lip, my taller friends six, my tallest friend four.
Friday, 16 November 2007
Sunday, 11 November 2007
Wednesday, 7 November 2007
Monday, 5 November 2007
Thursday, 1 November 2007
It's cold, it's clear, it's bouldering time.
I had a good session yesterday, dead hangs on the small holds, and then ripped the campus board: 1-5-roof again right hand, and then more.
Let's pack the car.